Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 20

Four Basic Backing Types
Despite the dozens of different backing types available, at the end
of the day the wide variety of embroidery backings can be broadly
divided into four basic types. These four types, in turn, are categorized
according to how they are removed. Let's have a look.
Cut-Away Backings: Cut-away backings are specially manufactured
to provide a permanent foundation for the embroidery, not only during
the stitching process but throughout the life of the garment. A portion
of the backing is meant to remain embedded in the embroidery on
the back side of the stitching to provide long-lasting stability on
fabrics that require it. After embroidering, the excess backing is
cut away from around the design with scissors or shears, leaving a
modest margin around the stitched area. These backings are soft to
the touch and feel smooth when worn next to the skin. Different
weights, or densities, of cut-away are available to match each of
your project needs. Cut-away backings are used with non-stable and
stretchy fabrics, such as knits and light wovens.
Tear-Away Backings: Tear-away backings are just what they sound
like-they're torn away from the back of the embroidered design once
the garment is removed from the hoop. Tear-away backings provide
temporary stability during the hooping and stitching process. In
most cases the remaining areas of tear-away backing left behind are
made to soften over time and eventually degrade and wash away. It
is therefore important that the kind of material you're stitching on
be able to support the embroidered design on its own during normal
wear and tear and through multiple laundry cycles. Tear-away backing
is used with tightly woven materials, like heavy twill, denim, home
decor, canvas and duck cloth.
Wash-Away Backings: Wash-away backings, like tear-away backings,
provide temporary stability during the hooping and embroidery process.
They are the backing you'll want to use for material where you need to
avoid leaving residual stabilizer on the back side of the embroidered
item. After embroidering, the excess is removed by rinsing with warm
water or laundering. The most common applications employing washaway
backing are in the creation of stand-alone lace, heirloom and
cutwork embroidery. Other uses include super-stretchy and slippery
fabrics, such as Lycra and Spandex, or items like nylon flags, sashes
and stoles, where the back of the item can be seen.
Heat-Away Backings (Films): Heat-away backings are a little
different from the other three in that they are first hooped all on their
own, after which the design is embroidered directly onto the film to
create a stand-alone patch, badge or emblem. After being perforated
during the stitching process most of the film can be removed by
hand, after which any excess residual material you might still have
can be removed with a heat gun or heat press. Heat-away backings
are typically used for stand-alone applications. Lighter-weight films
can also be used as a backing or topping with delicate specialty
fabrics, like satin or velvet, when using a water-soluble backing or
topping is not an option.
Real-world Examples
To help better understand the factors at play when selecting a backing,
what follows are a few common, everyday questions where we apply
the two key elements to practical embroidery situations:
Q. I recently embroidered a somewhat low-stitch-count design on a
lightweight T-shirt with a tear-away stabilizer. During stitching, the
material started puckering so badly I had to stop running the machine.
The fabric was lightweight, and I wanted to avoid any bulk showing
behind the design, so I didn't want a cut-away stabilizer. What did I
do wrong?
20
A " dense " design like this
lion image requires a heavier
backing. Photo courtesy
of Madeira USA/design
available at Embroidery
Library
Art by alex - stock.adobe.com
Though large,
this design is
much more open,
requiring less
stabilization.
Photo courtesy of
Madeira USA/
design available at
Urban Threads
http://stock.adobe.com
Impressions - Embroidery 2023

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Impressions - Embroidery 2023
