Impressions - January/February 2024 - 45

An example of a low-melt patch, used in this case
to avoid scorching the material of the cap being
decorated. Photo courtesy of World Emblem
Making sure you have the right needles in
place and that you change them out as needed
will help prevent a host of production hassles.
Photo courtesy of Impressions Expo
the bobbin tension on one head, you are going to have to make
sure it matches on all the other heads, otherwise they will not all
sew the same, " Smith explains.
To fix the problem, Smith says, the first step is to remove the bird
nest. " What you need is a sharp, long, thin-bladed knife. Slide the
knife underneath the throat plate and gently saw back and forth.
Once you have cut all the threads, you can gently remove the hoop. "
When picking out threads, always start from the end of the
design, Smith says. That way when you come to a place where the
threads overlap each other, you don't have to dig through layers.
" I use curved scissors, tweezers, a straight pin or needle and
clamps. Pick out threads one at a time. Try to grab a loop, but if
it doesn't come don't force it. To get better access, use clamps to
hold some of the tangled threads out of the way so you can reach
the ones you are working on, " Smith explains.
To prevent the bird nest from happening again, she says, check
your top tension. According to Smith, the looping is caused by
excess thread moving too fast and is fixed by tightening the tension.
Whenever you adjust tension, you want to do it in small
increments and then do a test sewout.
" Start by tightening the topmost tension just a little. I suggest
one to one-and-a-half turns. After testing, if it is still looping, go
down to the next tension adjustment and do the same. Do not
try to make the entire adjustment at only one tension position. If
you don't space it out over all the tension knobs, it messes up the
thread path, " Smith says.
As an added tip, Smith suggests making sure you've got the
same brand of thread on every head. " Thread manufacturers wind
cones differently, so one brand is not going to behave the same as
another, and this can result in inconsistent tension from head to
head and cause problems, " Smith says.
The problem: Fixing a hole
The cause: Using the wrong needle or thread, too much tension
or having a needle break can all create a hole in the garment.
The solution: " First, pick out all the loose threads, " says Smith.
" Next, find a reject or a misprint shirt that is as close to the color
of the damaged shirt as possible. For a 1/8-inch hole, you would
cut a half-inch square from the patch material. "
After that, Smith says, get something like a kitchen towel and
crush it into a ball. With the garment still in the hoop, lay the hoop
on top of the fabric ball with the backside of the shirt facing up.
Next, place a half-inch square of heat adhesive bonding fabric,
like Wonder Under or Stitch Witchery, covered by the half-inch
square of the patch fabric. Using a hand iron, touch the iron to
the patch until the bonding adhesive holds.
Remove the balled-up fabric and turn over the hoop. After that,
use the point of the iron and push the edges of the hole together
until they close. Sometimes, Smith says, she heats up her curved
scissors and uses them to pull the edges together. To finish up, cut
off any excess fabric from around the sealed hole and cut a new
piece of backing. Embroider the design over the backing, and it
should look like new.
The problem: Unstructured six-panel hats
The cause: Six-paneled caps provide less stability due to their softer,
more relaxed construction and minimal internal support. They
also have a limited design area and thicker seams that can obstruct
the needle's movement. The stretchy fabrics many are constructed
with can pull and distort while being sewn.
The solution: " I recommend using a really stiff backing, one that
is almost like cardstock, " Smith says. " I always had a big cardboard
box sitting by my machine. I used the box to spray the backing
with spray adhesive. Before hooping, I would lay the hat down and
mold the backing to the cap so there were no wrinkles. "
Ideally, Smith says, you should use a cap frame designed for the
rounded shape. " Be sure and make it's taut within the hoop, " she says.
The problem: Loose stitches
The cause: No lock stitch, which allows the thread to pull out and
look like a thread break.
The solution: " When digitizing, a lock stitch must be inserted at
Bevels, like those at right, can
also be a source of problems.
the beginning of each segment or letter, " says Joyce Jagger, principal
of The Embroidery Coach, based in Birmingham, New York
(theembroiderycoach.com). " This is sometimes skipped because
the digitizer assumes there will be embroidering on top of that
area. " Doing so, however, can result in problems. Don't make this
Jan./Feb. 2024
P.45
http://www.theembroiderycoach.com
Impressions - January/February 2024

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