Impressions - Embroidery Today 2024 - 28

Another critical point is ensuring
you have the correct backing. Th ere
are a range of diff erent kinds of
backing you can use depending
on the fabric you're working on.
Cut-away backing is typically
used for stretchy knits and light
woven fabrics. Tear-away backing
is best for heavier woven fabrics,
such as twill, denim and canvas.
Heat-away backing is another
alternative to traditional backing
for lace, organza and sheer fabric,
being a type of backing that can be
quickly and easily removed using
a household iron or similar heat
source. Lastly, specialty backings,
such as washaway backing, can be
used for projects involving applique
or freestanding lace.
Tools like this Towa digital bobbin tension
gauge can be hugely helpful in avoiding
things like top stitch looping and thread
breaks. Photo courtesy of Madeira USA
2) Not
Checking
Your Tension
Settings
Poorly set thread tensions can result in unsightly bobbin thread showing
up on top of the embroidery, top-stitch looping and thread breaks.
Top thread tension settings vary by thread type. Fabric type and the
idiosyncrasies of the machine, or machines you may be running should
be taken into account as well. Th e best practice is to run tension test
designs with the diff erent thread types you use to determine where
your particular machine's optimal tensions fall. Adjusting the bobbin
tension before setting your top thread tensions is essential. Th e reason
for this is because a multi-needle commercial machine has a single
bobbin and bobbin case that works with each needle.
Also be sure and check the tension on your bobbin thread each time
you replace your bobbin. Bobbin case tensions should fall between 25
grams-force/inch, or gf, and 35 gf. When doing so it's a good idea to
use a Towa-brand digital bobbin tension gauge in order to get accurate
readings for both top and bottom thread tensions.
3) Not Changing Your
Embroidery Needles for
Different Projects
Did you know that eight hours of running time is the optimal lifespan
of an embroidery needle? Worn needles can result in thread breaks,
skipped stitches and shredded threads. Th e look of your embroidery
can be instantly improved by replacing worn needles with fresh ones.
Also, it's vital to remember that needle sizes and point types must be
considered for each thread and project. Ballpoint needles are designed
for use with stretchy knit fabrics like T-shirts, performancewear, polos
and light wovens. Sharp points are best for tightly woven garments that
are heavy and dense, such as twill, denim, ball caps, backpacks, leather
and vinyl. It is also important to note that the thicker your thread is,
the bigger the needle you will need to be in order to accommodate
the thickness of the thread through the eye of the needle as well as to
open an appropriate-sized penetration hole in the fabric.
Change out your needles early and often to help ensure machine
embroidery success. Photo courtesy of Madeira USA
28
4) Not Being Careful
with Embroidery
Design Placement
Proper design placement will come with practice. In the meantime, it
is important to measure your garments and mark with a fabric pencil
where the design will look best.
A great way to accurately measure design placement is by aligning
your design with the help of a guide, like the All-In-1 Hooper from
my company, Madeira USA, a valuable piece of equipment that makes
fast and accurate work of proper placement on garments of all sizes.
For embroiderers who mainly do shirts, in particular, the guide is a
great tool to have. Holding off on splurging for a substantial piece of
hooping equipment? Never fear. Th ere are placement charts you can
fi nd online a well.
5) Not Prioritizing
Machine Maintenance
In order for your embroidery machine should run seamlessly (no pun
intended), you must maintain it daily. Here are my suggestions:
* Keep your workstations tidy and clean; this will reduce the chance
of things like oil spills, and prevent the buildup of excess lint or
any soiling that may occur
* Lubrication is a MUST to prevent parts from wearing down
too quickly; I recommend referring to your machine manual
recommendations; Hook Wash (a mineral based lubricant/solvent
mixture also available from Madeira USA) can help with quick
and easy cleaning and surface lubrication
* Regularly clean your rotary hook area using compressed air
* Remove the needle plate and clean often; compressed air and a
round brush can help with this job
* Check the thread path regularly to ensure there is no lint buildup
or burrs on the needle
* Clean your metal bobbin case and clean underneath the metal
tension fl ap.
And that's it! Well, not exactly. Th ere's plenty more to know and take care
of when it comes to quality machine embroidery. Nonetheless, ensuring
you're not making these fi ve common mistakes is a great way to build
a solid foundation upon which to begin your embroidery journey. 
This article has been adapted from an educational blog piece originally created
by Abby Gordon, digital marketing coordinator for the thread and machine
embroidery supply company Madeira USA. For more great articles by Madeira,
go to madeirausa.com/blog/education. To check out Madeira's complete line
of threads, bobbins, backings and commercial machine embroidery accessories,
including the All-In-1 Hooper and Towa gauge mentioned as a part of
this story, go to madeirausa.com.
http://www.madeirausa.com/blog/education http://www.madeirausa.com
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