Pizza Today - September 2021 - 21

The Greeks and Romans followed suit
and considered the tiller of grains a distinguished
citizen in a class above any
tradesman of the time. When harvest
season arrived, they cut the grain with
scythes, plain sickles or just plucked off
the grains using a fork with five teeth.
Some generals even put the Roman soldiers
to work during harvest time wading
them into a wheat field with their
sharpened swords. After the harvest, the
thrashing began as heavy horse-drawn
carts (called Carthaginian Chariots)
crushed the grain with pointed teeth.
The Roman-milled grain was sieved and
refined. Sometimes they would mill it
twice to create white flour called Siligo,
fine flour called Foir or Pollen. Spelt
was mostly used as whole meal flour and
called farina. The precursor of pizza and
modern pita bread was the wafer-thin
and un-topped Panis Strepticius that was
baked quickly on hot stones.
The products the ancients made went
into items that each social class could
afford. For instance, in the ancient Greek
markets, a delicate, but unleavened biscuit
using millet or barley (called
azumos) was sold as a sort of tasteless
hunk. But there also was a tastier artolangano,
into which the baker infused pepper,
oil, wine and milk. The poorer folks
had a choice between dolyres or typhes.
These were course dried gruel of emmer
(mixes of rye and barley). The high
fashioned ladies of the time preferred the
puff cakes called placates, or sweet melitutes,
which had light flour mixed with
honey before baking.
Ancient Grains in the Pizzeria
Einkorn: From German " single grain "
was cultivated in Syria 30,000 years ago.
Sometimes called " Littlespelt, " it has
a high protein content above 14 percent
and is packed with fat, potassium,
vitamin A, carotene and phosphorous.
Because of the arrangement of starches,
they released slowly so it does not spike
blood sugars. Einkorn is difficult to seed
and harvest because of a much smaller
head and it grows chest-high, which
leads to " blow downs " in the field. Even
so, many growers are turning to this ancient
grain. Because of Einkorn's sticky
attribute, I try to keep the hydration
below 80 percent and a nice 60/40 mix
with a higher gluten flour. This enables
the pizza to achieve the great golden
Einkorn color crust and moist cornicione
tasting all nutty, with that tangy wheat
flavor.
Rouge de Bordeaux: This has
been a favorite of French bakers for
a long time. At 15.25-percent protein,
it presents a nutty, earthy crumb with
notes of cinnamon spice. It is considered
a Heritage wheat and has been grown in
France since the 1800's. This flour can be
a bit expensive, so I like to mix it with
other flours at 30 to 40 percent. Nothing
touches a pizza made with this flour like
mushrooms, Fontina and garlic. Other
pizza toppings that work well with this

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Pizza Today - September 2021

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - September 2021

Commentary
Digital
Conversation
Mike's Monthly Tip
Man on the Street
Building Blocks
Tony's Trending Recipe
Knead to Know
Destinations
Sustainability Pays
Heat Preferences
Clean Ice
Cheese Pairings
Desserts that Sell
Booze-free Beverages
Tortellini
On the Road: Catcha-Fire Pizza, Cincinnati, OH
Tipping Trends
Product Showcase
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - September 2021 - CT1
Pizza Today - September 2021 - CT2
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Cover1
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Cover2
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Commentary
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 4
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 5
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 6
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 7
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Digital
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 9
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Conversation
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 11
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Mike's Monthly Tip
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 13
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 15
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Building Blocks
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 17
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Tony's Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 19
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Knead to Know
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 21
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 22
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 23
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Destinations
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 25
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Sustainability Pays
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 27
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 28
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 29
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Heat Preferences
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 31
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 32
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 33
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Clean Ice
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 35
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 36
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 37
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 38
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 39
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Cheese Pairings
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 41
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 42
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 43
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Desserts that Sell
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 45
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Booze-free Beverages
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 47
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 48
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 49
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Tortellini
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 050A
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 050B
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 51
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 52
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 53
Pizza Today - September 2021 - On the Road: Catcha-Fire Pizza, Cincinnati, OH
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 55
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 56
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 57
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 58
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 59
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Tipping Trends
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 61
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 62
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 63
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Product Showcase
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 65
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 67
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 68
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 69
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 70
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 71
Pizza Today - September 2021 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 73
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 74
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 75
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 76
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 77
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 78
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 79
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 80
Pizza Today - September 2021 - 81
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Cover3
Pizza Today - September 2021 - Cover4
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