Pizza Today -December 2022 - 22

to everything in between, but I never
saw any pizza that was too sauce
forward.
In terms of dough process, I
managed to speak with someone
within the Buddy's company; but
unfortunately, I am not privy to
specific proprietary information.
What I could gather is that they, like
a lot of pizzerias in Detroit, are
doing it the same way they always
have or as close to the same as
possible. They are using fresh yeast,
a mid- to low-range protein flour,
and there is no browning agent and
no fat or very little fat in the dough.
For water I suspect a lower hydration
not exceeding 60 percent. The dough
is made same day and is proofed in
the pan for a number of hours before
being cooked. The representative
from Buddy's explained to me that
it " should be light and crunchy " .
During my eating tour of Detroit, I
noticed the height of each pizza was
only about one to 1.5 inches and had
a crumb structure that was tighter
with many small bubbles. There was
a crunch on the bottom, but it was
never super distinct. It was the type
of crunch that you get from contact
with the pan and length of cook
time, but not the thicker and more
sturdy crunch you get from higher
hydration. The lasting impression I
got was this fervent sense of pride
in Detroit and its style of pizza, but
even the OG spots like Buddy's are
happy to see what Detroit style pizza
has become and how far across the
world it has spread.
As for the new school of
thought, I spoke with a few
well-known Detroit style pizza
makers, and no process was the
same. The defining characteristics
of a caramelized cheese crust made
in a rectangular pan were about the
only two things that were the same.
With technology and as much knowledge
about pizza and fermentation
out there, it is no surprise to me that
everyone is doing something slightly
different but, in their minds, making
it better. Flours range in proteins from
low to high depending on maturation
times, and hydrations are upwards
of 70 percent. Some are utilizing an
autolyse during the mix and some are
not. Some are making dough same day
and some are waiting days before use.
I don't see many pizzerias outside of
Neapolitan utilizing fresh yeast. But I
suspect this is more because of consistency
and shelf life than because they
prefer the flavor over instant and dry
active.
Cheese blends vary, but a lot are
using cheddar and brick to get the
caramelization around the edge. How
far down the side of the pizza the
caramelized cheese goes is a big eye
catcher. Some are going the traditional
route of only part way to maybe halfway
down, while others are going all
the way down to the bottom of the pan
fully encasing the dough.
Baking from raw proofed dough or
using a par bake seems to be the hot
debate these days. The old school is
baking from raw, while the new is doing
both. Par bakes give a different texture
and overall mouth feel to the finished
pizza, but can also be used because of
shop conditions. Sometimes a par bake
comes in handy because you can prep
many in advance and makes it easy to
transport and store for off-site events.
No matter what techniques you use,
it is always better in my mind to know
where you come from so as to better
understand the why and where you are
heading. The city of Detroit might not
be a hot tourist destination these days,
but " The Detroit " will forever live on in
the pizza industry as one of the tastiest
and cheesiest styles worth exploring.
Read Part II in the January Issue.
LAURA MEYER is owner of Pizzeria da
Laura in Berkeley, CA.
22 / PIZZATODAY.COM / DECEMBER 2022
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