Pizza Today _ January 23 - 35

W
hat is it about ravioli that
has us so captivated? Is it
the soft supple texture of
the pasta or the multitude of ingredients
that we can fill them with that makes
these little dumplings so popular? One
thing is for sure, there are a few things to
consider when adding handcrafted ravioli
to your menu.
Are you going to make your own
pasta dough, or will you use a premade
pasta sheet?
If you want to make your own pasta
dough, you'll need to decide which type of
flour to use.
We often associate Semolina flour with
pasta making because it is a very course
ground flour and it will produce a rough
and dense pasta that will soak up your
sauce better. But that texture and density
will compete with your filling, which is
really what you want to stand out.
Most all-purpose flour will do, but I
prefer Doppio (double) Zero all-purpose
flour. Its super fine texture yields a
very light and delicate pasta perfect for
showcasing your delicious filling.
Although you are not proofing
the dough because there is no
yeast in recipe, you still need to
allow time for the gluten structure
to develop which will allow you to
stretch the dough without tearing
it. This can take anywhere from
30 minutes up to a few hours.
If you choose to use pre-made pasta
sheets, there are many brands and styles
to choose from, thinner is better where
ravioli is concerned. Pasta sheets definitely
have some advantages. They are easy to
use, store easily and can save labor hours.
The flip side is that pasta sheets can be
more expensive than purchasing the raw
ingredients to make pasta dough in house.
When deciding which route to take, weigh
the added cost and convenience of the premade
sheets against your labor cost and
staffing availability. Perhaps the biggest
advantage to using pasta sheets is that
you can get right down to the business of
making your filling.
Tools. There are many tools and
techniques available to handcraft ravioli.
You can use a pasta making attachment for
your stand mixer that will sheet your pasta
dough. Then fill and press the two halves
together all in the same process. You might
decide to use a countertop pasta sheeter
and a ravioli mold to manually fill and
shape your raviolis. Lastly, you can lay
your sheeted pasta dough on the counter,
dollop the filling on the dough and after
pressing the two halves together, use a
cutting wheel or ravioli stamp to shape
and perforate the dumplings. In any case
it is all the same process. Sheet, fill, press
and cut.
Filling! Once you have decided on the
particulars of flour, shape, size and tools,
all that's left is the filling. You don't have
a lot of real estate to work with, so simple
is better.
If you have too many ingredients, your
flavors could get lost and overwhelm the
palate.
Ensure that all ingredients are
fully incorporated and avoid big
chunks of meat or vegetables.
If your filling contains raw meat,
consider lightly sautéing it beforehand.
This brings the flavors together and since
fresh pasta cooks so quickly, it may be
over done before your filling is at a safe
serving temperature. If you are using a
cutting wheel or ravioli stamp, ensure that
you are not overfilling your ravioli or they
will burst during the cooking process. I
like to use a .5-ounce disher, to ensure
consistency.
If you are using a mold, you'll be able
to see the indentions where you will
place your filling. This will help you to
know how much filling to use. The ravioli
making attachment will automatically fill
the ravioli for you, eliminating the guess
work.
Whether you are using pasta maker/
sheeter or a rolling pin, the desired
thickness is generally 1/16-inch, but
follow the manufacturers guidelines for
your pasta sheeter/maker.
Once you have made your ravioli, allow
them to rest on your work surface for
about 15 minutes before handling them.
This will allow them to form a good seal
and dry slightly so that they will not stick
to each other.
If you are going to cook the ravioli
immediately, there is nothing left to do but
boil your water and start cooking. If you
will be preparing your ravioli to order it is
best practice to pre portion them before
storing them. This will save prep time on
the line and is a great portion controlling
measure. In my experience, an 8-ounce
portion of ravioli is about right for most
guests. I base this portion on a 1.5-inch
square ravioli (about 17 in a serving)
To store fresh ravioli, place them on
a sheet pan lined with waxed paper or
a silicone mat and place in freezer until
they are frozen on the outside. I like
to use sandwich bags to portion the
ravioli into single servings because they
are inexpensive and easy to store in a
container in the freezer.
Consider creating a seasonal special
with your hand-crafted ravioli and bring in
flavors that feature the best that the season
has to offer. One of my favorites is a filling
made with house-made bulk sausage
with hints of sage and clove, dolce ricotta
and smoked mozzarella, drizzled with a
butternut squash reduction and candied
walnuts. Paired with a nice pour of your
favorite Bourbon, a warm sweater and you
are set for a great fall or winter meal!
Each of these methods has their
advantages and draw backs. Consider your
restaurant's volume, your staffing levels,
the amount of storage available for the
raw ingredients and how often you plan to
feature hand-crafted ravioli. If ravioli will
be a staple menu item, then speed is more
of a consideration than wasted dough. If
ravioli is a seasonal or weekly special, you
may decide that the hand-crafted artisan
look is worth the time and labor. In any
case the love and energy you put into your
ravioli will show in the end product.
MELISSA RICKMAN is co-founder of
Wholly Stromboli in Fort Lupton, Colorado,
and member of the World Pizza Champions.
Pizza Today _ January 23

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