Pizza Today - July 2023 - 23
bubbles like you see in Roman and even
in versions of focaccia.
Sicilians land between focaccia and
the Roman pan style in that focaccia is
very closely related to the Sicilian in its
original form. Roman techniques and
flours have begun to creep into the Sicilian
style turning it into a sort of hybrid.
Roman can take upwards of three days
and have a high hydration leading to a
very thin, crispy crust with a very large
and airy open crumb structure. Since a lot
of toppings are put on after the cooking
process in Roman pans, it makes sense to
have a large, open crumb structure as it
does. The Sicilian style is meant to carry a
heavier, wetter ingredient load so having
a spongier texture that can hold everything
without deflating it is ideal. Using
long and controlled fermentation times,
like Chris and John do, give the Sicilian a
lightness to the interior.
Hydrations into the 70s and above
are more common with Roman styles
and breads although can be found with
some Sicilians. When it comes to higher
hydrations, cook temps and whether
doughs are topped and baked from raw
or par baked then topped and cooked
lends to very different finished products.
The debate over par bakes or cooked
form raw extends into Sicilians. For those
looking for a slight crisp and a very soft
interior, cooking from raw will give you
that texture albeit a longer cook time. Par
baking is going to give you a soft interior
but the double bake is going to cook out
more of the moisture giving you a firmer
outer crust. If you are making a New
York-style dough that is cooked in a
500-550 F oven, the same dough can be
used for a Sicilian.
Incorporating Sicilians into an
operation is fairly easy although
time is going to be your biggest factor.
Sicilians require a rising period after
they've been pushed into the pan and
then a second period if they require an
additional stretch to get the dough into
the corners. This double rise process as
well as large quantities can take hours.
Adding this into an operation could
mean the addition of new equipment like
a proofing cabinet and pans as well as an
extra prep person on payroll. Although
it may sound like a lot of work, Sicilians
are one of the best pizzas for takeaway
and delivery as they reheat impeccably
and don't become soggy as fast as thinner
pizzas do. Sicilians are also a great
catering style as they can be par baked in
advance and transported to a site without
the worry of your dough over proofing or
having been mishandled.
The Sicilian style is one with a deeprooted
history but one that has evolved
many times since its beginnings here
in the US. I imagine it will continue to
evolve as trends change but the origins of
the style is one worth traveling to Sicily
for.
LAURA MEYER is the owner of Pizzeria da
Laura in Berkeley, CA.
http://www.smrset.com
http://www.smrset.com
Pizza Today - July 2023
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - July 2023
Pizza Today - July 2023 - CT1
Pizza Today - July 2023 - CT2
Pizza Today - July 2023 - Cover1
Pizza Today - July 2023 - Cover2
Pizza Today - July 2023 - 3
Pizza Today - July 2023 - 4
Pizza Today - July 2023 - 5
Pizza Today - July 2023 - 6
Pizza Today - July 2023 - 7
Pizza Today - July 2023 - 8
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Pizza Today - July 2023 - 40
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Pizza Today - July 2023 - Cover3
Pizza Today - July 2023 - Cover4
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