Pizza Today - February 2024 - 58

" Hairy Styles "
When does a pizza become a regional pizza style?
By Scott Wiener Photo Josh Keown
I
f you feel like you've been experiencing
Regional Pizza Style
Fatigue lately, you're not alone. Not
long ago, the vast majority of Americans
categorized all pizza into just a
few broad categories: New York Style,
Chicago Style and Other. Thanks to the
Food Network, social media and various
pizza competitions, we've been exposed
to a wide array of global variations.
Some are legitimate regional specialties
while others are mere mirages used for
marketing. How do we tell the difference
and when is it important to ignore
58 / PIZZATODAY.COM / FEBRUARY 2024
such classification? Let's find out by
diving into the history of regional style
nomenclature.
What defines a food as regional
in the first place?
The original pizza of Naples was itself
a regional distinction. Well into the
17th century, the term pizza was used to
describe cookies and cakes. The famous
Renaissance chef Bartolomeo Scappi's
1570 recipe collection, Opera, includes
several recipes for biscuits and cinnamon
buns that he portrays as different types
of pizza. When the savory pizzas we
now love appeared in Naples around the
mid-18th century, the modifier Napoletana
specified the dish based on its point
of origin. Geography is certainly the
most important element of a regional
style's definition.
There are strong parallels between
pizza and BBQ, particularly in the case
of provenance. BBQ expert and New
York Times best-selling author Meathead
Goldwyn explains that " South
Carolina [currently] has many different
styles of BBQ but the one that's unique
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Pizza Today - February 2024

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - February 2024

Pizza Today - February 2024 - CT1
Pizza Today - February 2024 - CT2
Pizza Today - February 2024 - Cover1
Pizza Today - February 2024 - Cover2
Pizza Today - February 2024 - 3
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Pizza Today - February 2024 - Cover3
Pizza Today - February 2024 - Cover4
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