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PAST PL AT E S
EXPLAINING THE SCIENCE
Why does food evoke flashbacks? " It lies
in the brain's reward system. When we
eat enjoyable foods, dopamine is released,
flooding our body with positivity. This
positive feeling gets encoded with our
memory of the food, so that when we eat it
in the future, we're reminded of the people
or events from the first time we experienced
it, " explains Dr Marianne Trent, a clinical
psychologist. " This nostalgia can boost
our wellbeing because, often, it provides a
direct link to times when life felt carefree,
or to moments spent with loved ones no
longer with us. "
Chef Duncan Tinkler, who makes twists
on nostalgic dishes with his food brand
Puds-u-like
Angel Delight was voted
the UK's most nostalgic
food from childhood
in a 2024 poll
REAL LIFE
" Mum's dhal
was a hug
in a bowl "
Bangers & Balls (with supper clubs inspired
by Enid Blyton and Rupert the Bear), says
food nostalgia is far more than a longing
for the good old days. " The smell and
taste of food has the power to transport us
back and, when we delve into nostalgia,
we're reminded of the values and lessons
learned during formative years. Nostalgia
can be a guiding light, illuminating the
path forward. By reflecting on where we
have been, we gain insight into where
we're going, using those memories as a
springboard for growth. "
Dr Marianne says the power of food
nostalgia runs so deep that it can help
long-forgotten memories to resurface:
" I grew up in the 70s
with immigrant
parents, so my
nostalgic foods cross
cultural boundaries.
At home it was Mum's
dhal, a tin-can fish
curry and, because
money was tight,
kidneys and liver
cooked in Sri Lankan
spices. We'd also
pester Mum for foods
my friends were
eating - alphabet
spaghetti, Findus
crispy pancakes and
Viennetta - so we'd
feel 'normal' and 'fit
in'. Mum's dhal lifted
me up when I was
down and got me
through boyfriend
break ups, like a hug
in a bowl.
" Now, when I need a
mood boost, I'll make
a bowl of dhal to
remind me of happy
times in the kitchen
with Mum. My Sri
Lankan Christmas
cake is a tradition that
started with Mum's
grandmother. It makes
me connected to
something bigger
than simply Christmas,
it's family, heritage,
culture and tradition. "
Ranji Thangiah, food
and recipe writer, and
founder of @srilankan
culturecollective
" Even for people with dementia or other
cognitive impairments, memories can be
triggered by the sight, smell or sounds of
previously enjoyed foods and drinks. "
A BITTERSWEET BITE
Food doesn't always evoke positive
memories. Personally, it can give me
pangs of sadness for times that can't ever
be returned to; a longing for the buzz of
my young, adventurous years - despite
the fact I'm perfectly content with where
I am now. For some, though, it can trigger
more distressing feelings. " Given how
the brain stores memories, we can recall
bad experiences more easily than good, "
says Dr Marianne. Fortunately, negative
nostalgia can allow us to reframe bad
experiences and move forwards. " It can
help to reflect on how far we've come
by comparing where we are now with
where we were. It helps us to look at past
challenges with a balanced perspective. "
CRAVING COMFORT IN CRISIS
The demand for nostalgic foods has risen
as household finances have tightened
over the past few years. " The release of
dopamine is key to experiencing joy.
During a cost-of-living crisis, usual
sources of joy may be off-limits due to
expense, so nostalgic foods offer a reliable,
affordable dopamine boost, " explains Dr
Marianne. Duncan says that harnessing
the power of nostalgia helps us reflect
on the 'make do and mend' attitude of
previous generations, " back when families
would get together around the kitchen
table over home-cooked food - and how
fulfilling and wholesome that feels " .
TOMORROW'S TWIST ON
YESTERDAY'S FAVOURITES
Lobster mac and cheese followed by
deconstructed jam roly poly, anyone?
Whether it's Michelin-starred Jason
Atherton opening a 'haute' dog joint in
the Harrods Food Halls or the retro cake
trolley at Ham Yard Hotel, 'newstalgia'
is everywhere in the capital right now,
" Cooking like this combines the charm
of the past with the innovation of the
present to create something unique and
intriguing, " says Duncan.
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