Viking Magazine - Mar/Apr 2024 - 13

As a young nation only gaining its independence
from Sweden in 1905, Norway
struggled in many ways to develop its identity
as a country. Interest in handknitting was
at a low point, and cheap imported knitwear
was fl ooding the market. Although knitting
had existed in Norway for hundreds of years,
it had yet to be tied to local traditions. By
coining the term " Norwegian knitting patterns, "
Bøhn claimed Norwegian patterns in
a national way that no one had done before.
Publication of her book rekindled interest in
handknitting and ensured that Norwegian
patterns were spread in Norway and internationally.
Norwegian sweaters and local
knitting designs became national symbols,
serving as a source of inspiration for knitters
and helping develop a growing wool industry
in Norway. While many Norwegian knitting
designs and patterns exist today, a few have
become internationally recognizable expressions
of Norwegian culture. Let's explore
where these patterns started and what their
widely popular motifs signify.
Setesdal
The lusekofte or " lice pattern sweater " originated
in the Setesdal Valley in Agder County in southern
Norway. One of the oldest of the patterned Norwegian
sweaters, it was originally a men's sweater.
While it is unclear how far back it dates, the
pattern seems to have fi rst gained its popularity in
the 1830s. The body of the sweater was traditionally
black and covered in " lice " -single stitches of
white repeated across the background. A kross og
kringle ( " X and O " ) pattern and zig-zag
borders cover the shoulders,
( "
borders cover the shoulders,
wrists and hem, although the
oldest sweaters often had
a solid white section for
the bottom part of the
sweater. The yoke
and cuffs are often
edged with overa
solid white section for
the bottom part of the
sweater. The yoke
and cuffs are often
edged with overlapping
black
and green cloth
and decorated
with colorful
wool embroidery
called løyesaum.
wool embroidery
sweater worn by
its namesake,
Marius Eriksen
The Marius
Marius
The Marius pattern-with its instantly recognizable red, white and
blue design-is undoubtedly the most popular and well-known
sweater pattern in Norwegian knitting. It is considered to be a
Norwegian national sweater. Created by Unn Søiland Dale in 1953,
the Marius design is more than just a knitting pattern, and the
design can now be found on everything from mugs to phone covers.
Dale was inspired by Bøhn's 1929 book " Norske Strikkemønstre "
and the traditional Setesdal sweaters. She based the Marius design
on the Setesdal lusekofte pattern, leaving off the lice pattern and
changing the natural sheep colors to red, white and blue, the
colors of the Norwegian fl ag. In a stroke of marketing genius,
the sweater was named after the World War II fi ghter pilot, skier
and movie star Marius Eriksen. In 1954, Eriksen was cast in the
Norwegian fi lm " Troll i Ord, " where the popular actor appeared
in a Marius sweater. A picture from this fi lm was used on the
front cover of the Marius knitting pattern and created enormous
demand for the yarn and patterns.
Marius Eriksen
wrists and hem, although the
oldest sweaters often had
@sonsofnorway
Mar/Apr 2024
13
PHOTOS (FROM LEFT) NTB SCANPIX, ANNE-LISE REINSFELT/NORSK FOLKMUSEUM
Viking Magazine - Mar/Apr 2024

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Viking Magazine - Mar/Apr 2024
