The Roanoker May/June 2022 - 146

dining
changes. Even the uniforms change. "
If the Clutch team struggled with the tranSmoked
wings
come in six flavors.
They also created a special morning drink
menu, to include a mimosa flight, with the
idea they could cater to a crowd often forgotten
by the rest of the restaurant world, those
night-shift workers whose happy hour begins
at seven in the morning, rather than four in
the afternoon.
After six months with the new breakfastlunch
menu, Clutch rolled out their dinner
service, another menu collaboration between
Soprano and Horn. This was a much trickier
transition, as it required not only a change in
food offerings, but in the entire atmosphere.
While Soprano didn't have specific guidelines
for how Clutch's dinner service should be
themed, he did have one requirement for the
entire dinnertime experience: " fancy. "
" Everything changes, " says Soprano. " The
food changes, the music changes, the lighting
146 MAY/JUNE 2022
sition, one would never know it. I've dined at
Clutch for both lunch and dinner. Both experiences
were excellent. My date night dining at
Clutch especially exceeded my expectations.
The lights were dimmed. There were fresh
flowers at every table. The dinner menu featured
those classic higher-end items one would
expect to find at an upscale dining establishment
with nice overlap from the lunchtime
menu for those who'd prefer a more casual
affair.
My dinner at Clutch started with two appetizers:
deviled eggs and pimento cheese with
homemade chips. Both were delicious. The deviled
eggs appetizer is one of Clutch's unique
menu items, and one that changes flavors on a
regular basis. Their pimento cheese is easily my
new favorite in town. For dinner, my husband
and I each went for our personal favorites: St.
Louis-style ribs for me, and Chilean seabass for
him. Both dinners were generously portioned.
My ribs were smoked to perfect tenderness;
they nearly fell off the bone to the touch. The
roasted potato fingerlings and caramelized
apples complemented one another and the
dish as a whole. Similarly, my husband's seabass
dish was a lovely combination of textures
and flavors, served with asparagus and cheese
120 Luck Avenue SW, Suite 200
Roanoke, VA 24011
(540) 655-4080
eat@clutchroanoke.com
grits as its sides.
My most recent visit to Clutch was with two
of my sons - both grown and living away from
home. We had a great time trying Clutch's
smoked wings and debating whether we liked
the apple butter bourbon or buffalo flavor better.
When our sandwiches came out, we had
to take a moment before eating to behold the
wonderful abundance of the food in front of us.
My freebird chicken sandwich was stuffed with
pimento cheese, a large homemade pickle slab,
bacon and the most gorgeous piece of fried
chicken I think I've ever seen. Both my sons'
sandwiches presented similarly. The smoked
brisket overflowed with chunks of brisket
meat layered with a pickle, house barbeque
sauce and pimento cheese, and served on a
jalapeno cheese bun. The pulled pork sandwich
was topped with Clutch's homemade, applefennel
slaw and also served with the jalapeno
cheese bun. All our sandwiches came with
homemade chips. I added a side of Clutch's
Brussels sprouts which, along with Clutch's
pimento cheese, is my other new favorite in
town.
Soprano says ever since Clutch shifted gears
from gourmet sandwich shop to full dining
experience, business has soared. It just goes to
show how much story is contained in something
as simple as a name. I
HOURS
Breakfast & Lunch: Mon-Sat: 7am-2:30pm; Sun: 7am-7pm
Light Menu (Starters & Drinks only): Wed-Sat: 2:30-4:30pm
Dinner: Wed-Sat: 4:30-9pm
TheRoanoker.com
http://www.TheRoanoker.com
The Roanoker May/June 2022

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