The Roanoker May/June 2023 - 138

Dining
I've done and that's how I experience the world.
That's what I'd like to bring people. "
Schlosser also pushes the limits when it
comes to ingredient sourcing. He plans to
work with a local farmer to grow bamboo and
pea shoots to make bamboo rice, a traditional
springtime dish in Japan. To celebrate the seasonal
bounty of our region, he'll source local
ramps and morels as well as soft-shell crabs
from Chesapeake. In a time when ingredients
are more costly than ever, Schlosser also looks
for delicious products that not only offer an
approachable price point, but also ones that
test his creative bounds, which are further
challenged by the absence of a vent hood in the
kitchen. The results are deeply flavorful proteins,
like lamb neck cooked low and slow in
a black BBQ sauce or the perennially popular
sous-vide brisket, served with bread, barbecue
sauce, coleslaw kimchi and horseradish crème
fraîche. (I'm not sure about repeating the experience
of assembling a brisket sandwich in the
lobby of a posh hotel, but the leftovers were
killer.) Don't sleep on the grouper curry, featuring
succulent medallions of fish cheeks in
a heady, aromatic tikka masala sauce.
" Post-COVID, restaurants have changed
and chefs like myself want to do something
different. This is the way to do it. It allows me
to constantly explore, change as the seasons go. "
The notion of fluidity is something that
extends to the space and vibe, too. Schlosser
chalks this up to a post-COVID trend that he
dubs " casual elegance. " He believes there will
138 May/June 2023
always be room for white tablecloth restaurants
and steakhouses, but that the experience
of fine dining can present in different ways. At
The Vault, that is encouraged by various seating
arrangements, including communal hightops,
intimate two tops, and the lobby groupings
of plush couches and chairs, which Schlosser
describes as like " dining in your rich friend's living
room. " Two-tops can quickly get crowded
with plates, but the staff is swift to bring a side
table to accommodate more dishes. You can also
reserve the Vault room, the building's original
vault (complete with Instagrammable door)
which doubles as a tasting room with 32 total
wines by the glass poured from a unique dispensing
system.
The bar is one of the main draws, and I'd
argue that bar dining never had it so good
in Roanoke. Pull up one of the sleek faux
leather stools to the polished marble top bar
and start with a drink. From the craft cocktail
menu, overseen by bar manager Nexus Watts,
try the Clover Club, a gin-based tipple with
fresh raspberry and lemon and a frothy egg
white cap, or the Golden Fizz, which mingles
vodka, orange, vanilla and amaro and drinks
like a boozy orange creamsicle. There are also
local craft beers and a wine list, all of which are
available as six-ounce pours or by the bottle.
Pair your beverage with a small plate or two,
perhaps a plate of thinly sliced jamon, which
includes imported cured hams and a local one
from Etzler Country Hams that has saltiness
and funk in spades. You could easily create
your own four-course, globe-trotting tasting
menu, say with Hamachi crudo, a raw fish
preparation punched up here with curry oil,
yuzu and jalapeno; steamed bao, pillowy buns
stuffed with chashu pork belly; albondigas,
a beef meatball dish inspired by a northern
Mexican soup; and takoyaki, Japanese octopus
and cheese balls.
Regardless of where you sit and what you
order, and no matter how fancy the place presents,
Schlosser says " underlying that should
always be sense of quality and service, all the
way to the music. " There are no flat screen TVs
at the bar for the music to compete with, but
it might be a little louder than you're used to.
Schlosser believes that's part of building a new
experience, but not the kind where the lobby
turns into a night club, either. The evening is
scored progressively to match the mood and
the hour. It typically kicks off with jazz, then
slides into French and European hip hop and
bossa nova, before moving to a deeper down
tempo for dinner and finishing with chill house
music. The lighting changes as the night progresses
too, which can sometimes feel disorienting.
Between the tunes and the purplishblue
lighting, the vibe can sometimes alternate
between a European disco and an episode of
The White Lotus.
Overall, between the eclectic global menu,
the funky soundtrack and stunning space,
Schlosser is making good on his intentions to
usher in a new era of fine dining in downtown
Roanoke. I
TheRoanoker.com
http://www.TheRoanoker.com
The Roanoker May/June 2023

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of The Roanoker May/June 2023
