The Roanoker Sept/October 2023 - 106
like Bún bò Huế, a spicy, deeply savory beef
noodle soup that's offset by herbaceous lemongrass
and garnished with purple cabbage and
banana flowers. It comes with a side of homemade
chili paste, which is worth asking for no
matter what you order. Báhn Xèo is another
sought-after special. Think of them as savory
Vietnamese crêpes, pan-fried till crisp and
filled with pork belly, shrimp, sauteed onions
and blanched bean sprouts. The crêpes are
accompanied by a medley of crunchy components,
including romaine, cucumber slices and
homemade pickled daikon and carrots.
Besides stopping in to It's Pho Time
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Lightly sweet Vietnamese iced coffee makes an ideal digestif; Owner Alyssa Tran
and her family; Báhn Xèo are pan-fried, savory Vietnamese crêpes.
OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT TO RIGHT: A bánh mì sandwich stuffed with homemade pâté, Vietnamese ham and
veggies; Beef pho, topped with sliced eye of round, brisket and Vietnamese meatballs.
for bowls of pho or to snag specials, the
Vietnamese egg rolls are a must-order. " It took
us a little while to come up with the recipe
because it's a lot of trial and error, " Tran says.
" We're used to making it for our family, not
a couple hundred at a time. We hand-roll all
of our egg rolls. My sister [Cindy] is a master
eggroll roller. "
The fried eggrolls arrive piping hot with a
shatteringly crisp exterior and just-right filling
ratio of meat-to-vegetables (or packed with all
veggies). Rather than using pre-cut vegetables,
Tran uses a mandoline to attain a uniform consistency,
which she says makes for a superior
bite. The appetizer section also includes excellent
springrolls (go for the shrimp), which
feature a fresh rice paper wrapper rather than
a deep-fried one, and Tran's mom's signature
savory-sweet peanutty hoisin dipping sauce.
If a bowl of brothy noodles isn't your
thing, you'll find a solid bánh mì, where the
Vietnamese sandwich comes stuffed with
homemade pâté and your choice of meat (opt
106
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2023
TheRoanoker.com
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The Roanoker Sept/October 2023
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of The Roanoker Sept/October 2023
The Roanoker Sept/October 2023 - Cover1
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The Roanoker Sept/October 2023 - Cover3
The Roanoker Sept/October 2023 - Cover4
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