Minnesota Golfer - Fall 2010 - 18

» Things to Know
CADDIES: The fi rst-time golfer (scratch and bogey
alike) should plan to take a caddie at Ballybunion,
Doonbeg, Lahinch, Tralee and Waterville.
Expect to pay 50-60 euros, tip included.
GOLF CARTS: Three of the courses-Doonbeg,
Old Head and Waterville-allow " buggies, " as
carts are called. Trolleys and caddies are the
norm at Ballybunion, Lahinch and Tralee.
MONEY: The Euro can be had at
local ATMs, where the exchange
rate is usually better than in
the States, or at currency
exchanges.
PHOTOS: Bring a small
camera and don't hesitate
to use it.
TRAVELING: When traveling
from Ballybunion to Doonbeg or Lahinch, catch
the Shannon Ferry from Tarbert Island to Killimer;
it'll save several hours drive time.
SIDETRIPS: Take the coastal road
from Kinsale to Killarney. Try the
fresh seafood in the small
towns along the way.
TIPPING: Be generous.
We tipped our coach driver,
Roy Capon from Doonbeg, for his
exceptional service.
TAKE A MULLIGAN: Plan " to take a mulligan "
in the form of allowing for an extra day for golf.
Inclement weather at Waterville nearly spoiled our
round; that day another group of Americans (including
one from Minnesota, no less) postponed
their round for a later, better weather day.
TRAVEL WITH THE PROS: Tom Kozlak and Remarkable
Travel's Golf Group are Ireland experts.
For more information, call 952-224-9902 or visit
remarkabletravelgroups.com/golf.
It's possible to get home in two shots
at the last, a 486-yard par 5. However, to
avoid the fi ve fairway bunkers, we took
an unorthodox route and played up the
fi rst fairway-to the astonishment of our
seasoned caddies.
WATERVILLE
From Killarney, we drove the Ring of Kerry
along farms, streams and gorse-covered
hills and through mist-shrouded peaks to
Waterville-where the bronze likeness of
another famous American golfer, Payne
Stewart, greeted us. Our drive to the course
foreshadowed the day, as wind, rain and
cold settled in for most of our round.
Tom Fazio, who redesigned parts of
the course in 2002, is quoted in the stroke
saver as saying, " I don't believe I have ever
been to a better place than Waterville. "
The opening hole, " Last Easy, " hints at
the golf test ahead. The second, " Christy's
Choice, " plays long (372-464 yards). An
estuary lines the back side of the green,
and three pot bunkers pinch its middle.
In contrast to the back nine at Tralee,
Waterville plays over relatively fl at ground,
except for the sand dunes prominent on
holes 4, 5, 11, 12, 15, 16 and 17. Kozlak,
who has made seven golf trips to Ireland
since 1999, noted that at Waterville and
Lahinch especially, the playing conditions
(tees, greens and turf) have improved signifi
cantly, thanks to investments in maintenance
and irrigation. The
marquee links courses seem
to have discovered that
golf tourism is the " goose
that lays the golden egg "
and have made strides in
courteous service as well.
It was at Waterville that
our group experienced what
Berger jokingly called " just one day
of Irish weather. " After we fi nished, we
were entirely soaked and chilled to the
bone. A double shot of Connemara and
a stack of warm towels, supplied by the
club secretary, Mr. Noel Cronin, restored
our health.
THE OLD COURSE AT
BALLYBUNION
Only one man has set foot on both the
moon and the Old Course at Ballybunion:
16
MINNESOTAGOLFER Fall 2010
astronaut Neil Armstrong. The rest of us
will have to settle for just playing one of
the fi nest seaside links courses in the world,
according to Herbert Warren Wind. The
fi rst tee at Ballybunion's Old Course is a
stage surrounded by curious onlookers-
but the nervous golfer will more likely get
spooked by the graveyard that sits ominously
along the right. Fortunately, this fi -
nal resting place (OB) shouldn't come into
play on this short, downhill opener.
The ride begins on the second hole, the
No. 1 stroke Index hole, a par 4 (354-445
yards) that sweeps steeply uphill to a hidden
green. Without a knowledgeable caddie,
it's a toss-up between hitting one or
two extra clubs to get home. The par-3
third is a stretch, playing 189-220 yards,
but it moves downhill and out of bounds
lurks behind the green.
Holes 4 and 5 are similar back-to-back
par 5s, with out of bounds along the right
and 21 assorted bunkers between them.
» The Games
Tom Kozlak's Remarkable Travel golf trips
are known for mixing social golf with a variety
of individual and team competitions. The
daily net and gross games ensure that most
golfers will be " rewarded for their moments
of brilliance. " Kozlak relies on special software
to create pairings (most golfers get a
chance to play with everyone) and track the
various net and gross games.
Kozlak organized a Ryder Cup-style team
game, " The Ireland Cup. " Sadly, team Europe
beat USA (431
/2 to 411
/2
points). The seven
rounds ended in an individual race, " The
King of Ireland, " recognizing the player who
collected the most daily
net and team points.
After each round, Kozlak
printed pocketsized
results of the daily
games, skins and team
standings, plus the next
day's " GOO " -going out
order (pairings and tee
times). These cards started
endless conversations during
our nightly pub rounds.
www.mngolf.org
http://www.remarkabletravelgroups.com/golf http://www.mngolf.org

Minnesota Golfer - Fall 2010

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