Viking Magazine - May 2018 - 23
Buttons on men's vests and jackets were sometimes
made from coins or were cast to look like coins, as
Hilde Nødtvedt did to make this button.
Not many people limit themselves to those
practices anymore, he adds. Women wear a plaque
belt " not because they're married, just because
they like it. "
Trends and Tradition
Bunad silver, originally worn because people
needed brooches, buttons and clasps to hold their
clothing together, also has a history as a vehicle
for storing and showing off wealth. Rossing sees
people wearing more bunad silver over the past
20 years. They're adding to their bunads items
that weren't worn as much traditionally -
" earrings and perhaps more silver than they really
need, " she says, laughing.
" Producers are trying to bring new accessories
to market so there's always some new invention, "
Rossing says. Umbrellas printed to match bunad
colors and embroidery motifs were immensely
popular when they came out about 15 years ago,
she says. Silver hair clips have also had their day.
One trend that's more historically rooted is that
more women these days are adding " Vienna
shawls " to their bunads, large, square shawls
made of wool or wool-silk damask that were a
luxury import in centuries past.
There are people who " really go crazy with
accessories, " but by and large Norwegians tend
to be a little conservative about making changes
to their bunads, Rossing says. She thinks she
understands why.
" Perhaps you got married in it, " she says.
" You wear it for all the family celebrations, the
baptisms, confi rmations, weddings. It becomes a
very valuable and very personal symbol, not only
a national one. "
Clothes that Made a Political Statement
What turned day-to-day 19th century
rural clothing into bunads? It was
the new intention with which urban
Norwegians, often young people,
started to wear them, says Camilla
Rossing, director of the Norwegian
Institute of Bunad and Folk Costume.
" These were kids originally from the
countryside who had moved to the
cities and were engaged politically,
or culturally, at least, " from 1875 to
1920, she says. It was at a time when
industrialization was changing Norway.
As the turn of the century approached,
there was also growing impatience
to get out of the union with Sweden.
Urban young people started wearing
folk dress for theatrical performances
and in other settings in order to
promote what they saw as the pure
culture of Norway, a culture preserved
in Norway's rural interior and not
infl uenced by Denmark, Sweden or the
rest of Europe.
There was a crossover period in the
mid- and late 1800s when " people in
the countryside were still wearing
these clothes in the traditional way
every day, " while in the cities, " kids
started to wear them in a different
context all together, " Rossing says.
" That's when the bunad was 'born,'
so to speak. "
sonsofnorway.com VIKING MAY 2018 23
PHOTOS BY (LEFT TO RIGHT): JORN GRONLUND, HILDE NØDTVEDT
http://www.sonsofnorway.com
Viking Magazine - May 2018
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Viking Magazine - May 2018
Contents
Viking Magazine - May 2018 - Cover1
Viking Magazine - May 2018 - Cover2
Viking Magazine - May 2018 - Contents
Viking Magazine - May 2018 - 4
Viking Magazine - May 2018 - 5
Viking Magazine - May 2018 - 6
Viking Magazine - May 2018 - 7
Viking Magazine - May 2018 - 8
Viking Magazine - May 2018 - 9
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