Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 22
GaziNg
Out Over
thE MOstly
frOzeN
ArCtiC Sea,
I see glittering
shades of
white in the
snowscape,
blues tinting the
small pools of
water between
ice floes, even
some gray
hanging out in
the nooks and
crannies hidden
from the glare of
the 24-hour sun.
One of the
naturalists tries to direct me: " See that
jagged piece of dirty ice just below the
horizon? Come down about two inches.
It's right there. " Peering through my
telephoto lens, I wonder how I'll ever
be able to pick out that blob of ice from
the infinite number before me. " It's
raising its head! " someone says softly.
Suddenly I see it, the off-white lump
that I've been searching for: a polar
bear. The captain slowly urges the ship
forward, breaking through the ice to
bring us within a couple hundred feet
of our quarry. Everything is silent save
for the clicking of camera shutters as
we capture the bear doing bear stuff:
lunging at us, pacing back and forth
across the ice and, finally, yawning, his
long tongue (black, like his fur-covered
skin) lolling out of his mouth. We're not
his only audience; two ivory gulls loiter
nearby, hoping at some point to enjoy
the leftovers of a kill. Eventually, the
bear ambles away toward the horizon
and the birds fly off, disappointed. But
I'm not. I've just seen my first polar
bear in the wild.
These giant marine mammals are
why my boyfriend and I find ourselves,
in early June, on the deck of the Ocean
Adventurer, only eight degrees away
from the North Pole. Three days earlier,
we boarded the ship in the world's
northernmost town, Longyearbyen,
the launch point for most of the Arctic
Circle cruises in Norway. We would
be spending almost two weeks with
125 other passengers on a Quark
Expeditions trip called " In Search of
22 VIKING JANUARY 2019 sonsofnorway.com
http://www.sonsofnorway.com
Viking Magazine - January 2019
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Viking Magazine - January 2019
Contents
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - Cover1
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - Cover2
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - Contents
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 4
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 5
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 6
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 7
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 8
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 9
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 10
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 11
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 12
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 13
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 14
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 15
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 16
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 17
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 18
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 19
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 20
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 21
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 22
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 23
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 24
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 25
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 26
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 27
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 28
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 29
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 30
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 31
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 32
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 33
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 34
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 35
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 36
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 37
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 38
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 39
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 40
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 41
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 42
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 43
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 44
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 45
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - 46
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - Cover3
Viking Magazine - January 2019 - Cover4
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