BW Confidential - Issue #9 - March/April 2012 - (Page 40)

Insight: Make-up Retailing Making the sale Retailers are credited with doing more in-store to create excitement in the make-up category. What do they need to do next? by Oonagh Phillips etailers have begun to take more interest in make-up. More stores now organize events in conjunction with brands, are offering services, whether it’s manicures, eyebrow shaping or make-up lessons and are giving the category more space. As part of its new concept, French retailer Marionnaud put make-up at the center of its stores. “We wanted make-up to be more prominent, as it attracts attention and is an impulse buy,” commented Marionnaud marketing director Fabrice Obenans. German retailer Douglas too is giving more space to the category—at its new store in Cologne Central Station, make-up takes up a whole floor. However, some brands complain that retailers are chopping and changing ways of presenting make-up much too often, meaning that the offer is unclear for consumers and incoherent with the store’s overall concept. They also bemoan retailers’ penchant for prioritizing exclusive brands or their ownlabel products, which may create buzz in the press, but sometimes results in minimizing the business of some more established brands that drive most of the sales. There is a feeling that there are just too many exclusive brands and the beauty advisors often pressure consumers to buy these products, often against their initial intentions. One brand executive summed up this trend as being the ‘Sephora disease’. “Too many retailers are trying too hard to replicate what Sephora is doing whether in terms of assortment, format or services. Sephora has been successful, but it didn’t meet with this success overnight; however, some retailers are trying to copy certain Sephora elements and expect to win with them in just one year. You can’t just implement one part of the Sephora strategy as often it doesn’t fit with the rest. 40 R s Digital technology is set to play a bigger role in-store, as with YSL’s unit for its new lipstick line (above). Retailers are also giving more prominence to make-up, as is the case with the new Marionnaud concept where color is at the center of its stores Basically the consumer needs a clear, easyto-understand store with good service and samples,” he comments. Simplification & segmentation To create a clear and well-organized offer, there is an argument for better segmentation. US-based market research company Brand Keys evp and director brand development Amy Shea told BW Confidential that shoppers often can’t find what they’re looking for as the product isn’t organized by consumer needs. “You only see what stands out, which are items aimed at 18 year-olds. Women are so time-starved that if they can’t find what they’re looking for they’ll either not buy or buy what they’ve always bought. The industry should look at how they can introduce the brand in a fresh way,” she comments. UK-based research company Mintel head March-April 2012 - N°9 - BW Confidential

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #9 - March/April 2012

Cover
Comment
Update - Brand & retail news recap
- Companies on the move
Take note - Market facts, figures & trends
Best of BW - Highlights from our e-publication
Launches - The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
Interview - HSN gm of beauty & merchandising strategy Betsy Olum
Insight: Make-up - Category overview
- Nails
- Retailing
- The latest trends
Wellness - Online marketing
- Spa case studies
Retail - Pos technologies
- Store concepts
Digital - Social media strategies
Market watch: Brazil fragrance - Country overview
- Fragrance industry roundtable
- Prestige fragrance retailing
Strategy spotlight - Case studies to inspire
Travel retail - Americas regional overview
- Brazilian travelers
- Interview: Nuance Group North America...... Andrew Rattner
Radar - Six up-and-coming beauty brands
Packaging - Electronics in beauty packs
- Latest innovations
Last word - Crépuscule ceo Christophe Lerouge & creative director Olivier Boré

BW Confidential - Issue #9 - March/April 2012

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