Big Picture - August 2020 - 11

droplets, splashes, splatter, and sprays. It's crucial to prioritize
fabric construction in your conversation with your fabric
supplier when sourcing fabrics for face masks. A loose knit or
weave won't get the job done, will only act as a symbolic
barrier, and will give the wearer a false sense of safety.
Utilizing a fabric constructed with stretch is also a way to
increase function and comfort. Stretch - whether created with
spandex or built in mechanically - helps the masks fit snug
across the wearer's face. Additionally, it helps prevent particles
from escaping through the sides of the face mask as it will fit
closer against the skin. Preventing malfunction is paramount
and using a stretch fabric allows for better fit and performance.
FABRIC FINISHES

Right now, the idea that "necessity is the
mother of invention" couldn't be truer. By
flexing both our technological and creative
muscle, we can respond to the urgent
pressures we face today.
Adding a UPF sun protective finish to PPE is another way to
increase layers of protection. UPF finishes are rated from 15 to
50+; the larger number corresponds with a lower percent of UV
ray transmissions. UPF finishes have gained popularity in the
apparel industry over the past few years and will certainly give
face masks an edge, especially for those who work outdoors.
UNDERSTANDING THE VARIABLES
When health and safety are on the line, understanding the
nuances of fabric content, construction, and finishes is
imperative. Each element is an integral part of the finished
product and even impacts pattern development and sewing
processes. Shifting to PPE production means we can't source
fabric solely based on print clarity and color vibrancy. There's
a lot more to consider because there's a lot more at stake.
Whether you produce laser cut face masks that require
little sewing, gaiter-style face masks, accordion-style face
masks, or face masks with a filter insert, be sure to source a
fabric that addresses the needs and complexities of your face
mask design. The good news is the fabric suppliers to the
digital print industry have been doing their homework and can
help evaluate your product and answer the tough questions.
The leading fabric suppliers in our industry are even launching
specialized fabrics for PPE that not only meet CDC recommendations, but are optimized for digital printing.
Right now, the idea that "necessity is the mother of
invention" couldn't be truer. By flexing both our technological
and creative muscle, we can respond to the urgent pressures
we face today. Producing PPE may be the viable route to keep
your shop open now, but it could also become a mainstay as a
core part of your business. Who's to say what will happen
next? All I know is the print industry will be quick to respond
to whatever comes our way.
Disclaimer: Information on the topic of PPE is evolving daily. Please

refer to the CDC for health and safety guidelines in regard to PPE and
the COVID-19 pandemic. Insights expressed in this article are based
on government recommendations and thorough, personal research.

BIGPICTURE.NET

There are several ways to increase performance and build
layers of protection in PPE design. One of the best ways to do
this is by using a fabric with a specialized finish. There are
several finishes that will elevate face mask performance, but
in the case of PPE, nothing rivals an antimicrobial finish. A
fabric with this type of finish terminates the growth of
microorganisms, which include viruses and bacteria. Antimicrobial finishes have been applied to fabrics in the medical
industry, from hospital gowns to curtains, for years. It's even
regularly applied to activewear fabrics to combat germs
produced when the wearer sweats.
Antimicrobial finishes are applied to fabric at mill stage;
it's not something that can be added later in the production
process. It can be applied to both synthetic and natural fibers,
but the process of application differs. Adding an antimicrobial
finish to synthetic fibers requires a process using heat and
exhaust, while a process using padding technology successfully applies the finish to natural fibers.
As we continue to monitor the spread of COVID-19 in
our country, it's becoming increasingly clear that one of our
most significant challenges is to simply get people accustomed to wearing face masks. We must adapt to form this
new habit. I believe we can help advance this effort by
increasing the physical comfort of PPE. Making a breathable
fabric is an immediate way to do this, especially in warmer
seasons and climates.
I wrote about breathable finishes in my last column, "The
Power of Polyester," and noted there are numerous names
used to describe the same type of technology. To recap, I'm
talking about wicking or moisture management finishes.
Though it may seem counterintuitive at first, breathable
finishes can simultaneously act as a particle barrier and wick
moisture. To better illustrate this concept, think of the
opposite: a face mask that absorbs moisture (sweat, coughs,
sneezes, etc.) and clings to your face as you go about your day.
That face mask will only continue to absorb particulates and
its effectiveness will decrease the longer you wear it. A face
mask with a wicking finish will aid in moisture evaporation
and keep the wearer dry and comfortable.
Breathable wicking finishes can be applied to both synthetic
and natural fibers at mill stage, although it's more frequently
applied to synthetic fibers because natural fibers innately
breathe. Over the last few years it has become more common
to apply wicking finishes to natural fibers to increase perfor-

mance. I encourage you to consider sourcing breathable fabric
because, after all, increased comfort will lead to increased use.
It's important to note that fabric with a breathable finish
should not be washed with fabric softener because it will block
the pores of the wicking agent. Be sure to communicate these
wash instructions to the wearer as it will inform the finish's
longevity. As a general rule, I suggest all face masks be air
dried because heat reduces the fabric's life span.

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Big Picture - August 2020

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