Via Oregon - November/December 2020 - 36

THE EAST SIDE
I decide to descend again, this time on foot. Hiking in
winter can be tricky: Ice and snow often leave trails slippery and downright dangerous. But the South Kaibab Trail
from Yaki Point is mostly clear, thanks to near-constant sun
exposure. (What makes for brutal summer heat keeps the
path drier in the winter!) With lug-soled boots and hiking
poles, I follow the trail just under a mile to Ooh Aah Point,
then press ahead another half mile to Cedar Ridge before
turning around.
The easternmost stop inside the park is the Desert View
Watchtower, another Colter structure. The 70-foot tower
seems to rise organically from the rocks around it, blending
in with the natural environment. Inside the Kiva Room-
once a gift shop, now restored to its original purpose as a
viewing area-I admire the intricate symbolism in the vivid
murals painted by contemporary Hopi artist Fred Kabotie.
Just northeast of Grand Canyon National Park lies Glen
Canyon National Recreation Area. Here, the Colorado
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River winds through a lacework of red rock walls. Every
year, nearly 1 million visitors come to see the much-photographed loop of the river canyon known as Horseshoe
Bend, where green water sweeps around a column of
pumpkin-colored sandstone for a stunning study in contrasts. The public overlook is accessible from a half-milelong paved path. This region is also known for its dramatic
slot canyons, undulating folds of sandstone carved deep
into the plateau by rushing water. Access to some of the
slot canyons is a courtesy of Navajo families who own the
land; you must have a permit or a credentialed guide.
So I wrap up my Grand Canyon visit by exploring Secret
Antelope Canyon with a local tour company. The jeep excursion offers a chance to see Horseshoe Bend from a private
overlook. As we shudder and jounce over sheets of slickrock to reach the slot canyon's almost-invisible entrance, it
occurs to me that there couldn't be a more perfect end to my
trip. From a canyon so grand it covers nearly 2,000 square
miles-an area larger than the state of Rhode Island-I've
traveled to one so narrow that I'm forced to turn sideways to
slide through some of its folds. What better way to appreciate the mighty forces of water that shape the earth? ●
melanie haiken also writes for afar, cnn, Condé Nast
Traveler, and many other publications.

LEFT: ADAM SCHALLAU; RIGHT: BRYAN JOLLEY / TANDEM STOCK

LEFT: Desert View Watchtower is one of architect Mary Colter's many
masterpieces in Grand Canyon National Park. RIGHT: Hikers negotiate
South Kaibab Trail's "windy ridge" about a mile below the rim.

Via Oregon - November/December 2020

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