Clean Run Magazine - January 2007 - 17

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because the dog did not know the push was coming , lost time the dog does
not have timely information on where he is going , refusals the dog does
not see #4 and so does not take it and incurs a runout , and a possible
off-course over the obstacle to the right of #4. The front cross would be
much more effective if it was executed between #3 and #4 as shown in
Figure 1b. The basic rules for a front cross are as follows: 1A 4 1 3 FC 2
A front cross between #2 and #3 can cause problems. The dog knows to drive
to the handler s left side and is already making decisions about where #4
is. As he looks through #3, however, he cannot see #4. • The dog should
be turning toward you in between the two obstacles where you are placing
your front crosses; that is, the dog should be turning left if you are
doing a front cross from your right side to your left, and he should be
turning right if you are doing a front cross from your left side to your
right. See Figure 2. • Your dog’s path after the front cross should
continue driving straight or toward you, not away from you. So if you do a
front cross from your right side to your left, your dog makes a left turn
while you cross. His path after the cross should then be straight or to
the right since you are on his right, he will naturally curl toward you .
If you do a front cross from your left side to your right, your dog makes
a right turn while you cross and his path after the cross should be
straight or to the left. If you feel that you have to push on your dog’s
line after you cross, you will likely need to put the cross one obstacle
later as in Figure 1b. Keep in mind as you work through these exercises,
that the descriptions of the dog’s lines are based on an exact build of
the sequences. Usually there are variations in the actual setup, so you
may need to adapt where the crosses are actually going if your dog has
different lines than those depicted in these exercises. This disparity
happens in competition as well, and the actual course build in the ring
can differ slightly from the course on paper. So, I recommend using your
course copies to get an idea of the course, but plan your handling
strategy based on the actual course builds. Good luck and most of all,
have fun! 1B 4 FC 1 3 2 FC FC 2 Doing a front cross between #3 and #4 is
much more effective. This placement reduces the possibility of knocked
bars and virtually eliminates the potential for a refusal or off-course.
Right to Left Handler has changed from dog on right to dog on left, and
dog has made a left turn. Left to Right Handler has changed from dog on
left to dog on right, and dog has made a right turn. D 3 6 3A 6 1 5 7 1 5
FC 8 4 2 4 FC In this exercise, you will see that when the dog is in his
ideal landing spot from #3, he does not see jump #5 through the uprights
of #4. The dog has to turn left between #3 and #4 to get on a line to jump
#5. Therefore, you should do a front cross between #4 and #5, as shown in
Figure 3a, to pull the dog to jump #5. When you look at your dog’s ideal
landing spot from jump #6, you should be able to see jump #8 through the
uprights of #7. Since your dog has a straight line from #7 to #8, you can
do a front cross between #6 and #7. Note: Because this sequence ends at
#8, the latter cross/change of sides is not required; however, these are
front cross exercises so take advantage of the opportunity to practice
another front cross and improve your understanding of where to put a front
cross. 2 8 3 3 January 07 | Clean Run 17 Warning : Unknown : The session id contains invalid characters, valid
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Clean Run Magazine - January 2007

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run Magazine - January 2007