Clean Run - January 2018 - 10

Rather than going back and forth
through the uprights, I will work each
session from one direction only. This
also ensures that I won't inadvertently have my dog offering the jump
before I am ready. Work this drill on
both sides.
Once you feel like your dog has the
idea that his job is to go through the
uprights, you can start adding distance. As you bring your dog back
for the next repetition, rather than
going right up to the jump stanchion,
leave about 1-2 feet between you
and the jump. Make sure the dog
moves away to go through the uprights rather than just running across
your front. Sometimes what we think
the dog understands and what he
actually understands are two different things. If your dog bypasses the
uprights and runs in front of you,
then get close to the uprights again
and increase your distance from the
jump more gradually.
Once you see your dog making a
conscious decision to go through the
uprights you can move on to Drill 2.

5

6

Drill 2: The initial arc is only
12 inches from the jump.

Drill 2: The initial arc is only
12 inches from the jump.
7A

8

7B

R

R

work are to create rock
solid understanding for

Drill 2: Arc Work
Our goals in this foundation work are
to create rock solid understanding for
finding the line and crazy motivation
for going through the uprights. The
second drill, shown in Figure 5, is
one of the most important pieces of
my distance training and will help us
achieve those goals. This is a simple
drill but one that must be done well,
with attention to detail.
You are going to work the dog in an
invisible arc around the jump. You
will start with an arc that is only about
a foot from the jump and then as you
progress the arc will widen until you
are 20 to 30 feet from the jump.
You are now going to switch to
thrown toys as reinforcement. Remember, the toy must be thrown
low and fast on the line the dog is
traveling. This drill should be a blast
for the dog! Make sure your dog has
energy to start. If you have a tugging
dog, get him tugging and bring him
over to the jump to the position on
the arc where you want to begin and
let him offer the jump. If your dog
10

Our goals in this foundation

finding the line and crazy
Remember to manage your dog
from start to finish so that you
Remember
manage your dog
maintain histofocus.

from start to finish so that you
maintain his focus.
doesn't tug well get in some handsy
play, get him to chase some treats
in your hand, or do anything that will
get him jazzed up. Then bring him
over to the desired starting spot on
the arc and let him offer the jump.

It doesn't matter where you start
on the arc, just make sure that you
never stand in a position where you
don't have room to move forward
with your dog (i.e., directly behind
the jump). Also, never set up your
dog up for a rear cross in this drill.
We just want him to drive the line
that you set for him.
Very important point: there is no stay
in this drill. The drill is most effective
when it is shaped, not lured and not
started out of a stay. So engage with
your dog and the toy as you set up
for a repetition. Point your foot (the

motivation for going
through the uprights.

one next to your dog) where you
want to send your dog as shown in
Figure 6 and take the tug out of his
mouth or stop playing with him. As
soon as he starts to move toward the
jump, throw the reinforcer and move
forward on a parallel line to him. It is
imperative that you throw the reinforcer after he has made the decision
to go to the jump, but before he actually goes through the uprights. See
Figure 7. This keeps your dog from
looking back at you, one of the key
points you need to progress this skill,
but ensures he is instigating the motion so you are not simply throwing a
toy through the uprights as a lure.
Once you do a successful repetition,
circle your dog back around, go to
a different position on the arc, and
repeat as shown in Figure 8.
Clean Run | January 18
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run - January 2018
