Clean Run Magazine - April 2007 - 19

Putting the Rear Cross into Course Work Thus far we have been focusing primarily on the skills needed by the dog to execute a rear cross: to go forward and commit to a jump, and to respond to a verbal cue so that he takes off and lands turning in the proper direction. The handler has been focusing on the timing of her verbal cue and cross. Now it is time to add obstacles leading into the cross to help the dog generalize his new skill and to help the handler gain experience cueing an upcoming rear cross. Add two jumps to the setup you have been working on in the configuration diagrammed in Figure 1. Use the jumps labeled #1 and #2 in Figure 1 to review the work you’ve done thus far. Then add one jump into the rear cross by doing the sequence in Figure 2. Set your dog up, lead out a short distance, and release him. Maintain a parallel position to your dog’s path while allowing 1 Do him to pass you. Then, while stepping forward, send him to 2 jump #2 with Go, Up, then Left, and cross as your dog commits to the jump just as you have been doing. Practice moving into your rear 3 cross by adding another jump to the sequence as shown in Figure 3. Note the path of the dog between jumps #2 and #3 in 4 3 Figure 3a should be a relatively straight line. When planning a rear cross you want to identify this straight line, and align yourself parallel to it to send your dog to the jump and then cross behind him. Compare the path of the handler in Figure 3 to the path illustrated in Figure 3a, which shows a common handling error. The handler cuts the corner and hurries to the jump where she is crossing (#3 in this case), thereby bisecting the dog’s path. This error usually leads to the dog’s stopping short or turning prematurely off the jump. Also, don’t pull to the right to execute a rear cross to the left as shown by the handling path in Figure 3b. This maneuver will likely result in your dog’s future confusion when you actually want to go to the right, and meanwhile adds yardage and lost time to your rear cross. To gain further practice finding your line and executing rear crosses, move jump #2 and repeat the sequence as shown in Figures 4 and 5. 1 1 2 1 2 2 3 1 Don't 1 Don't 2 2 3 3 3A 4 3B 4 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 4 When to Do Rear Crosses A rear cross is very helpful in sections of a course where you don’t think there’s a possibility to get into position for a proper front cross. An improperly timed front cross will add yardage and send your dog on a loopy path, while a properly timed rear cross may allow a better path and maintain speed for your dog. In some cases a dog’s turn after the jump may be tighter with a rear cross than with a front cross. Simply walk both ways in the walk-through and see which feels best. Remember: you can rehearse your verbal cue and don’t have to think of it on the fly. Over time you will probably find the need for the verbal cue diminish as your dog becomes accustomed to your changes in path selection, and your speed into the turn will serve as a cue for the upcoming turn. Initially, however, a verbal cue for a turn away can truly help a dog gain understanding of this handling maneuver and help him turn away with drive and confidence. D Ann lives in San Diego, California with her two Boston Terriers, Chance and Prix, and four Border Collies, Caper, Trigger, Flurry, and Kit. Her Bostons, Mystic (1992-2004) and Chance, achieved many agility firsts for their breed. Chance, Caper, and Trigger are all double agility champions, MACH and ADCH, and have all been AKC Nationals finalists with Trigger placing second overall in 2003. Trigger and her teammates won the 2004 DAM National Team Championship. Ann now teaches full time at her training center, Paws on the Wind Dog Sports, and is also an AKC and USDAA judge. Learn more at www.pawsonthewind.com. April 07 | Clean Run 19

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Clean Run Magazine - April 2007

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run Magazine - April 2007