Clean Run - May 2017 - 44

Bar Work
When your pup is old enough, start working with a jump. It is
generally recommended that dogs be at least 12 to 14 months
old before they jump full height. I will do some very low jumping with dogs around 6 months of age, but it is very low and
only done occasionally because I do not see any benefit to
jumping them at the "wrong" height for months on end.
When the dog is old enough to start real jump training, I use
Linda Mecklenburg's method to get the dog to full height
for the first time. I like her method because it teaches the
dog a thoughtful "lofting" movement over the bar (because
the dog learns to use his rear end to propel himself vertically up and over the jump) and it teaches the dog's head
to be down as he jumps (because the treats are delivered at
ground level) which encourages round jumping form. It also
teaches the dog rear end awareness and to tuck his front
legs neatly so they don't contact the bar. Both bending and
collection are taught from the beginning. Even more importantly, her method is the easiest way I have found to isolate
the jumping behavior so that you can communicate to the
dog that he cannot touch the bar or stanchions.
The method is explained in detail in Chapter 5 (Foundation
Jump Training) in Linda's book Mastering Jumping Skills for
Awesome Agility Dogs, Volume 1, and I recommend using that
resource to teach it. There are six stages to the training, but they
do not take long to work through. The work can be physically
and mentally tiring for the dog, so short sessions are important.
Essentially, you start by teaching the dog to offer to jump back
and forth over a wingless jump from a standstill while you are
sitting on the ground at the middle of the jump. The bar starts
very low, about 2-4 inches high. You click the dog for clearing
the bar (and stanchions) without touching it and reward him
from your hand which is held at ground level at the base of the
stanchion. There is no click and treat if the dog contacts the bar
or a stanchion in any manner. You raise the jump bar 2 inches at
a time and later start adding different approach angles and distances as well as changing your position. This is, of course, just a
very general summary of the training.

Linda Mecklenburg demonstrating the jumping form that her
method encourages. Notice that across the peak of the dog's
jumping arc his head is down (lower than his withers) and his
back is rounded. Please note that this photo does not represent
how the work begins, but rather what you are working toward.

Further Beginning Jump Work
Jump work is often overlooked in agility training. As my One
Jump Two Jump program is done with only two jumps, I
will not be taking you into how to train jump grids. But you
should train them and I highly recommend the extensive
material on how to go about it that is available from both
Susan Salo and Linda Mecklenburg.
Both of the training projects described here can be done
with any dog at any time. Go ahead and test your trained
dog with both exercises-you may discover a training hole
that you did not know you had!
Good luck. Let me know how it goes! D

Sandy Rogers has been teaching obedience and agility since 1991, and founded ACE Dog Sports in San Francisco, California in 1999. Her dogs have competed in the
USDAA and AKC national championship finals multiple times in four jump heights. Sandy and Jack Russell Terrier Quill competed on Team USA at the World Agility Open
in 2011-2013, winning individual gold and silver in 2012 and bronze in 2013. Quill won the 2013 USDAA Grand Prix Finals, and placed second at the 2012 and 2014 AKC
Nationals. Sandy has two DVDs available: One Jump Two Jump and Feet First. To contact Sandy, email sandyrogers@acedogsports.com.

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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run - May 2017