Clean Run Magazine - October 2007 - 17

For a dog of a very small size (Yorkie, Norwich, and so on) the distance between jumps may have to be as little as 3' apart. For a small Sheltie, Pug, or JRT the distance would most likely start at 4' apart. For the average size Sheltie, JRT, Beagle, and so on, the beginning distance would be 5' apart. For the Aussie or BC body type, 6' apart; and for the GSD, Doberman, and so on, 7' apart. While I have suggested a basic distance for readers to begin with, it really is not that simple because some small dogs have huge strides and some big dogs have a very short stride. The grid is intended to produce a bounce and not a stride. A bounce is where the dog lands and leaves again from the same spot. The goal of this exercise is to get a bounce and therefore to work on strengthening the muscles in the haunches (quads, hamstrings, and so on). There is no magic formula for getting the spacing “just right” but I generally take into consideration the length of the dog’s back plus about one-half again more to get the maximum compression/ extension for each dog. Once the dog is capable of doing the exercise at speed with full power, then he might need slightly more room but not much! him. He does not need forward speed or momentum to jump 4" or 8". Use your Go On command to send the dog to go through the grid line to the target, or lead out all the way to the target and recall the dog. 2 If the Dog Pulls Out of the Grid Many dogs both young and old will not commit to the grid at first, meaning they may take one jump and pull out of the grid. When this happens they are simply telling you they are overwhelmed by the row of poles that close together. Place the target before jump #2 so that the dog is initially just jumping into the grid line. Once he is successful move the target so it is before jump #3. Continue backchaining in this manner until the dog is completing the entire line. Backchaining for jumping works in this way so that the dog still sees the complexity of the entire line of jumps in his line of sight but you still can build his confidence gradually. Never fence in the grid in any way. Remember training is about choice and if the dog pulls out of the grid that is information you need to help him with building confidence as it relates to committing to the path. If the dog has more speed in the grid than he can handle, changing the appearance of the grid by angling the jumps (more complex) will help him engage his brain and sit back on his haunches, resulting in better weight transfer and successful completion of the grid. the target at the end of the grid, and then the target before the last jump. If the speed continues to be a problem then you will need to change the look of the grid as seen in Figure 2. The distance between jumps remains the same, but due to the change in appearance (more complex) the dog will engage his brain and sit back on his haunches, which results in a better weight transfer and makes the grid work out more successfully. The Next Step Once the dog is performing the jump grid well, reliably, and at speed, then you are ready to begin the proofing process and begin adding movement and changing your handling position. Remember, you should be able to be ahead of the dog, behind the dog, throwing the toy for the dog, and gaining lateral distance from the dog. If you take the time required to put all the pieces together, then when you sit your dog at the start line and walk out to your position, it is business as usual to the dog. Coach John Wooden once said, “The people who achieve the greatest success are the ones who take time to perfect the smallest details.” I feel that quote is quite a good one to remember when taking time to teach the supportive layers of a good foundation to your canine partner. D Introducing the Dog to the Jump Grid Remember it is not the handler’s job to try to encourage speed through the grid. The dog will produce speed through the grid when he can handle the balance and footwork. Speed is generally the byproduct of understanding and confidence. To begin, place your target well after the last jump (about 10' away) and then set the dog close to jump #1 (about 3' away). If you set the dog too far back and he builds too much momentum jumping into the grid, he will be unable to control the footwork required of If the Dog Begins with More Speed Than He Can Handle If the dog begins with more speed than he can control, he will jump the last two jumps as one. Remember the flat ladder work that I referred to earlier in this article: it gets harder the farther into the ladder you go. This will happen, if not at first, then as you begin proofing with motion while you then pressure the dog for speed he cannot handle appropriately. At that point, put the target in the grid right before the last jump. By this placement we are telling the dog that he must interact with each space appropriately. This may take several times of going back and forth, placing and replacing A lifelong horsewoman, Susan Salo has offered her insights into jumping for dogs in agility in seminars around the country, including Power Paws and Clean Run Camps, and is proud to be a part of the Say Yes Team for Susan Garrett’s Graduate Skills Camp in Toronto, Ontario. She currently resides in Woodland, California, and can be reached at Jumpdogs@aol.com. October 07 | Clean Run 17

Clean Run Magazine - October 2007

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run Magazine - October 2007