Clean Run Magazine - November 2009 - 61

When the dog is successfully going ahead of you and taking #2 at a satisfactory distance, it’s time to add another jump. Since we’ll be backchaining, add the new jump before #1. The new jump is now #1, with the remaining jumps as #2 and #3. Start with the dog placed before #3 and have him jump #3; then progress to starting him at #2, to jump both #2 and #3. Finally start with the “new” #1 jump (green) and work all three. This is called backchaining because you are working from the most familiar (or end behavior) and backchaining toward the least familiar (or new portion of the behavior). Run with the dog over all three jumps. If you are unable to move much at all, lead out between #2 and #3 and call the dog over #1 and #2 as you take a few slow steps forward to send the dog on over #3. Reward the dog after the three-jump sequence. After a few repetitions, the dog will likely be trained to the pattern. It’s time to again remove forward motion from the equation. Decrease your speed as in the two-jump sequence, making sure all other signals remain. Your dog should go ahead over #3 with your decreased speed taking him to between #2 and #3. Just as in the two-jump sequence, you slowly decrease speed while sending the dog ahead over #2 and #3 until you can remain behind the dog between #1 and #2 and still send the dog on over #2 and #3. Again, some handlers may wish to take this training further to where the handler doesn’t move beyond the start position and has the dog go ahead to take the straight line of three jumps. When the dog is sending ahead over the three jumps, add a fourth jump, again in front of #1 (green). Backchain the behavior as you did for three jumps and then once again fade forward motion until you can send the dog on a straight line over four jumps. You can add as many jumps as you wish in this line. Make sure to work the dog on both your left and right. Some handlers may wish to take this training further. You can teach the dog to take the straight line of jumps while you walk away at a 90° angle and use no hand signal, only verbal cues to support the dog. Some dogs will be uncomfortable with pattern training because they are uncomfortable with leaving the handler’s side. In those cases, it may be best to begin training with one or two of the other methods. You can return to pattern training after the dogs are successful with plate or toy training. When the dog is running comfortably ahead of you to the plate, you can start the dog from #1. Keep the plate beyond #2 and run with the dog to the plate. As the dog learns to run ahead to the baited plate, you can begin to remove your forward motion from the equation as described in the “Pattern Training” section above. When the dog is running comfortably ahead of you to the baited plate, you can add in a third jump as described in pattern training to backchain the sequence. Work until the dog is comfortable moving forward over all three jumps to the baited plate with the handler taking only a few steps beyond #1. Then add a fourth jump and repeat the process. You may want to keep plate-baiting to a minimum, especially if your dog is sniffy. It can encourage some dogs to start sniffing for treats on the ground, even in trial settings. By being careful to always place the treat on a plate and not on the ground, you can help minimize this negative aspect. Toy Training Using a toy is one of my favorite methods for teaching Straight. Do this similarly to plate training: except instead of baiting a plate, throw the toy for the dog beyond the last jump. Set the sequence up as in Figure 1. When using a toy, do not be late with your throw. A late throw can cause your dog’s head to turn to look for the toy. You want the dog focused forward, not on you. You may want to practice throwing without your dog to make sure your aim is good. Throwing the toy to either side of the last jump can cause the dog to miss it as he follows the toy’s trajectory. Aiming properly becomes more difficult as the distance from your dog increases. You may need to have another person throw the toy for you if you find you cannot aim while you simultaneously decrease your forward motion; use your verbal cues, hand signals, and shoulders properly; release your dog; and complete the sequence. Plate Training Figure 2: To train Straight using the plate, set two jumps in a straight line about 15' to 20' apart. Put the dog in front of #2. The plate is set 5' to 10' in a straight line beyond #2. You can either bait the plate now or you can teach the dog to run out to the plate and pounce on it or put his nose on it in a separate training session. Send the dog over #2 to the plate and give your Straight or Go cue in a timely manner. 1 2 P P P P The Straight or Go directional cue tells the dog “run in a straight line and take the obstacle you find there.” November 09 | Clean Run

Clean Run Magazine - November 2009

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run Magazine - November 2009