Clean Run - December 2011 - 48

Reinforcement happens quickly and often when the dog is correct. When he is incorrect, there is no reinforcement. But I immediately have him figure out what is correct, which also helps to keep a keen and focused dog.

his wrong choice, or even a bit farther back. With this action, all I am trying to do is get him back into position quickly so we can try that distraction again. He can then attempt to make the correct choice again so I can reward him when he finally does make the correct choice. My goal is always quick dog training. Very important side note: I would only replace the dog if he doesn’t feel that being replaced is a correction or an aversive. Any sort of squirming or resistance or cowering or crouching lets me know that he does indeed feel this is a correction. On the flip side, if the dog remains relaxed with ears still alert, and does not resist in any way, it shows me that this is not an aversive. Reinforcement happens quickly and often when the dog is correct. When the dog is wrong, there is no reinforcement, but I want to immediately get back to having him figure out what is correct. This also helps to keep a keen and focused dog. Slow dog training, where reinforcement is slow to come and in few units, with lots of down time and handler fumbling, not only creates boredom but also oftentimes creates stress. Quick dog training keeps interest, focus, and alertness and is full of energy from both canine and human. To give you an idea of how much and often the dog is rewarded within a 2-minute training session, even with one or two failures, he receives about 35 treats. Now that is some quick dog training!

Variations
Also within this game I at times give a verbal release cue and allow the dog to move out of his position to take the food I am releasing him to, whether it is from my open hand or on the ground. I do this without any movement on my part, simply giving the verbal cue. Therefore, I am working the last two components of my start line. And during this time I add tugging to also reward release. The release cue must be verbal, because if paired with handler movement (normally stepping or running away), the physical cue will actually be what the dog is releasing on (the step away). So now, every time you take a step away, he is being cued to release. A release cue must be rewarded as often as any other cue such as Sit or Down. If you have your dog sit for his food bowl, then you can release him to it. That is a good reward for the release cue. If you have your dog sit at the door before letting him out with your release cue, you can then immediately follow this with a treat. Remember, we want all the reward/reinforcement/dog money coming from us. Don’t think of the release to outside, agility equipment, other dogs, and so on as the reward. The reward should only be coming from us, the handlers/trainers. Your goal with the start line should be to come up with every test or distraction possible while you are within 1' to 3' of your dog. Why? Because of quick dog training. If you are 20' away you

The dog must not move toward the treat. He must maintain position until the treat is delivered to his mouth.

An advanced exercise: The treat is placed on the dog's foot. The dog may look at the treat, as long as he doesn't move his feet. When his feet remain still, the treat is delivered to his mouth.

Clean Run | December 11

Clean Run - December 2011

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run - December 2011