Crains New York - June 4, 2012 - (Page 27)

flickr.com/chemex INSATIABLE CRITIC Gael Greene O Il Buco’s offshoot is an exquisite dream of a wine bar buck ennis CONFERENCES AND SEMINARS WEDNESDAY, JUNE 13 Join Cowan Liebowitz & Latman for a FASHION INDUSTRY BREAKFAST SEMINAR ON CHINA. The event will examine legal and business opportunities and challenges when doing business with or in China and discuss the enforcement and protection of brands in that country. The short presentation format will allow for an interactive question-and-answer experience. The seminar will take place at the Harvard Club of New York, 35 W. 44th St., from 8 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. To register for the free event, visit www.cll.com. For more information, call William M. Borchard at (212) 790-9290 or email wmb@cll.com. WEDNESDAY, JUNE 13, TO FRIDAY, JUNE 15 The International E-Learning Association presents the INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON E-LEARNING IN THE WORKPLACE. The fifth annual conference brings together e-learning experts from more than 30 countries in academia, industry, small business and Fortune 500 companies. The conference will take place from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. at the Faculty House, Columbia University, 64 WHAT SHE’S READING AS THE FOUNDER of the Academy of Medical Development and Collaboration, Maria Mitchell spends her days dealing with biomedical research and scientists from medical institutions and hospitals. But when she’s not working, she spends her time examining another area of academia: history. She recently started reading The Path to Power (The Years of Lyndon Johnson, Volume 1) by Robert A. Caro, a biography of the 36th president’s early years. “It’s a lot about leadership and political maneuvering and the way the world works,” said Ms. Mitchell, who is also the organization’s president and CEO. “I like reading about people who are masterful at politicking.” —EMILY LAERMER ne of my favorite dinner pals is a squealer.“I’m in Italy!” she cries, her voice arching above the convivial din in the back room at Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria,turning heads at the communal table steps away. “This is really Italy!” Well, it looks like a prop master’s Italy—old brick, tin, rough-linencovered banquettes, artist Warren Muller’s clever chandeliers overhead, the husky chef in his denim apron commanding the open kitchen. The house has sent a platter of salumi:peppery Tuscan sausage,capocolla, gossamer shrouds of lardo.“I can taste the fennel,” someone cries. Now the five of us are shifting a half-dozen starters in small dishes on the rough wooden table, gobbling up miniature artichokes,crisp-fried with a hit of preserved lemon.Who would think of pairing sausage with charred garlic scapes, currants and crispy carrots? The cuttlefish à la plancha is an original, too: seared with black garlic on a rubble of puffed barley. Most of us are kvelling now over what is modestly billed as ricotta and peas. It’s as if I’ve never seen a pea so revealed as in this amazing sculptural cut of the knife. It might have been a jeweled pin by Cartier.“It’s just a pea,” murmurs a friend. But it’s not just a pea. A crunch, the tang of cheese, a hint of mint. It is pretty thrilling. “I really know I’m in Italy,” my blissed-out pal announces. Actually, I cannot imagine raw peas in the pod so exquisitely sculpted, much less served in some Tuscan country inn. Crudo may have caught on all over the boot by now, but this couturier cut of Spanish mackerel with green radish, the cool of grated cucumber and the juice of limequat could scarcely be imagined in Umbria, much less Calabria, where they do eat tiny neonatale raw. In Italy, a trattoria or gastronomica might very well cure its own meats, as the house does here. But Italy’s little country inns get bread from the local bakery.They are not likely to bake their own from whole grain and lazy, long fermentation, as Kamel Saci does here. Uncontrollable gasps announce the already legendary short rib, a blackened crusty monster wrestled to the platter on its bone.Yes, it is remarkable—unimaginably tender; fatty, of course; the celery, horseradish and bright green olives balancing the richness with salt and bitter.The beef has been brined, salted with the LEGENDARY: The remarkable short rib CULTURAL EVENT MONDAY, JUNE 11 Join Entourage star Adrian Grenier for the 2012 BIDEAWEE GALA. Celebrating the animal welfare organization’s 100th year at its East 38th Street location, the evening will be structured around a New York City theme. The festivities will include music, dinner, dancing and both live and silent auctions. The black-tieoptional gala will take place at Gotham Hall, 1356 Broadway, at West 36th Street, from 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Tickets range from $50 to $500. To get more information and to purchase tickets, call (866) 262-8133 or visit www.bideawee.org. —eva saviano IL BUCO ALIMENTARI E VINERIA 53 Great Jones St. (212) 837-2622 www.ilbucovineria.com Pick of the week CUISINE Italian-inspired PRICE RANGE Pastas and secondi $17-$38 SERVING Breakfast, lunch, dinner RESERVATIONS Recommended NOISE LEVEL Noisy I can’t wait to return. I will definitely go back. I’ll let them simmer awhile. NO HATS Never again. To view Crain’s classified events listings, go to www.crainsnewyork.com/events Sicilian elixir of anchovies, colatura di alici, marinated with crushed peppercorns for 24 hours, then slow-roasted. No one whose food I’ve ever tasted in Italy or anywhere else could dream up this animal. It is chef Justin Smillie’s Demoiselles d’Avignon. Granted, Smillie’s pastas could pass for Italian: bucatini cacio e pepe (with pecorino Romano); spaghetti (salted with bottarga); my favorite, the cork-shaped busiate (a salt sampler of anchovy and capers with an almond crunch); and the ruffled lasagnette (tossed with rabbit, greens, olives and parmigiano). Dessert may seem excessive, even overkill at this point,but quite frankly, all are modest and mostly delicious, especially the zabaione with strawberries and the chocolate budino layered with espresso mousse and whipped mascarpone. Proprietors Donna Lennard and Alberto Avalle started with antiques and Muller’s chandeliers around the corner at Il Buco on Bond Street 13 years ago. The artist now sells pieces made from Mini-Coopers for $200,000, and she has created her grocery store and wine-bar dream of Italy on Great Jones.As you have read here, I’m totally smitten. Copyright © 2012 by Gael Greene. Syndicated by www.insatiable-critic.com. GROW. WISELY. Everyone wants to grow. But grow how? In which markets? At what cost? To grow wisely, you need an advisor who really knows your business...and knows you. Who can deliver tailored solutions that create opportunities, maximize efﬁciency and build business. EisnerAmper is that advisor. We roll up our sleeves to get to the bottom of your toughest challenges so you get the advice and strategies you need to create sustainable growth. Charles Weinstein Chief Executive Ofﬁcer 212.949.8700 charles.weinstein@eisneramper.com Howard Cohen Chairman 732.287.1000 howard.cohen@eisneramper.com Let’s get down to business. TM www.eisneramper.com EisnerAmper LLP Accountants & Advisors Independent Member of PKF International NEW YORK | NEW JERSEY | PENNSYLVANIA | CALIFORNIA | CAYMAN ISLANDS June 4, 2012 | Crain’s New York Business | 27 lisel ashlock Great Italian on Great Jones THE WEEK AHEAD JUNE 11-17 Morningside Drive. Tickets range from $450 to $995. To get more information, contact the ICELW conference team at (212) 679-2683 or email info@ocelw.org. To register online, visit www.icelw.org/ registration-crains.html. THURSDAY, JUNE 14, AND FRIDAY, JUNE 15 The Northside Festival brings the ENTREPRENEURSHIP FESTIVAL to Williamsburg and Greenpoint, Brooklyn. The event will transform a 40,000-square-foot factory into a conference center that will house a trade-show floor filled with New York’s hottest startups. It will also be the site of more than 40 panels about innovation, software development and design. The conference will take place at the Northside Warehouse, 149 Kent Ave. Tickets range from $20 to $180. To get more information or to purchase tickets, visit www.northsidefestival.com or email northside@thelmagazine.com. http://www.icelw.org/registration-crains.html http://www.icelw.org/registration-crains.html http://www.northsidefestival.com http://www.cll.com. http://www.ilbucovineria.com http://www.bideawee.org http://www.crainsnewyork.com/events http://www.eisneramper.com http://www.eisneramper.com http://www.insatiable-critic.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Crains New York - June 4, 2012

Crains New York - June 4, 2012
Table of Contents
Drink stink: Big Soda aims to fight Bloomberg ban
To your health: Late nightclub owner bequeathed bar’s profits to hospitals
New York, New York
Tax cuts for wage hikes: A political deal takes shape in Albany
Sugar buzz: Readers weigh in on the idea
Viewpoint
Opinion
Small Business
Real Estate Deals
Classifieds
NASCAR’s marketing chief hits the road
Seed money for social entrepreneurs
Hot Jobs
Tracey Stewart finds her “moment of Zen”
A dream of a wine bar opens
The Week Ahead

Crains New York - June 4, 2012