Crains New York - May 27, 2013 - (Page 26)
SOURCE
Bringing home the lettuce LUNCH:
ALEXANDER SAINT-AMAND
Continued from Page 25
High standards
If Foragers can’t procure fish or
certain fruits locally, the partners
make sure their suppliers meet Foragers’ good-for-the-environment
and anti-cruelty standards.
Ms. Castellani, for example,
discovered that her staff at the
Chelsea location had been buying
net-caught tuna to use in a prepared salad. She immediately
yanked it from the store.
“I’m not always here for every
delivery,” she explained, “but we
certainly don’t sell unsustainable
fish here.”
The offending tuna cost about
30% less than the line-caught,
smaller American variety that Foragers sells in its sister location in
Brooklyn. But pricing is beside the
point at Foragers.
With some commodities, like
dried goods, Foragers’ pricing is
competitive with Fairway Market,
said Ms. Castellani. “On meat and
fish, I don’t want to compete,” she
added.
The stores’ shelves are stocked
with brands most New Yorkers
have never heard of, like bread
maker Berkshire Mountain Bakery and dessert-focused S’more
Bakery.
While Ms. Castellani eschews
buzzwords like “locavore,” “farmto-table” and “slow food,” Foragers
is the textbook definition of those
overused terms.
“We are really just about being
anti-commodity, anti-processed
food, and sometimes that costs
more,” she said, adding that some
customers complained about the
tuna salad after the price went up to
$12 a pound.
It’s a complaint Foragers is neither afraid of nor one that seems to
richard beaven
Columbia County. The couple
founded the business eight years
ago in Dumbo, along with a partner, Clifford Shikler, who was the
general manager at a small eatery
business that Ms. Castellani, 42,
owned previously.
Foragers may have been a little
ahead of its time in 2005, but now
it is part of a much larger movement propelled not only by chefs
and retailers, but also by consumers
who want to buy food from local
sources and businesses that offer
sustainable products.
AGRI-BUSINESS: Foragers co-owner Anna
Castellani and her husband, Richard Lamb,
who tends to the couple’s upstate farm.
be hurting it. Foragers generated
$10 million in revenue last year,
when the partners invested about
$1 million to open the Foragers in
Chelsea.
The grocer is helping to fulfill a
large-scale need in this region, connecting upstate farms to the city. In
the process, it’s blazing a trail that
its owners hope others will follow.
Mr. Lamb, who tends to the
couple’s farm full-time, employs a
Foragers
has been a
godsend for
some small
businesses
driver who transports beef, lamb,
pork, eggs, produce and baked
goods into the city twice a week.
The driver logs at least 1,000 miles
a week picking up goods from
about 20 businesses upstate, including the couple’s own farm.
The van not only supplies Foragers’ two markets and 35-seat
restaurant in Chelsea, it also drops
GREEN OPERATION
FORAGERS ISN’T THE ONLY DISTRIBUTOR bringing locally grown food to the city.
GrowNYC, which runs the city’s 53 greenmarkets, last year launched
Greenmarket Co., a wholesale distribution initiative that supplies
restaurants, grocers and several charitable organizations.
The program has far surpassed the organization’s financial goals
and now needs a larger facility than its Long Island City, Queens,
warehouse, where it shares space with City Harvest’s distribution center.
“There was a point when we had to scale back our operation, because
we couldn’t keep up with the demand,” said Marcel Van Ooyen, executive
director of GrowNYC. Greenmarket Co. pulled in $15,000 in sales a week
during the height of the growing season—or twice as much as it had
projected. Foragers just started to use Greenmarket Co. for some of its own
produce needs.
—LISA FICKENSCHER
26 | Crain’s New York Business | May 27, 2013
off meat at some of the most acclaimed restaurants in the city on
behalf of a handful of sustainable
purveyors.
The Spotted Pig, Gramercy
Tavern, Daniel and the Meat
Hook in Brooklyn rely on Mr.
Lamb’s refrigerated MercedesBenz Sprinter van for some of their
local meats. The restaurant accounts cover the van’s expenses, including its loan payments, maintenance and the driver’s salary, said
Mr. Lamb.
“There are very few people running to the city, coming from the
country,” said Ms. Castellani. “It’s
not easy to get your product here if
you’re a farmer, so we fill a need.”
For Mr. Lamb, working with
nearby farmers makes his job more
interesting.
“Cultivating these relationships is so satisfying, to pay the
people directly who supply your
food and know that they are helping you and you are helping them
build their business,” said Mr.
Lamb, 45.
Foragers has been a godsend for
small businesses like Bonfiglio &
Bread in Hudson, N.Y., a bakery
that makes hearty European-style
loaves. Every Tuesday and Thursday, Mr. Lamb’s driver picks up
dozens of loaves from the bakery,
delivering them to Foragers—
Bonfiglio’s only client in the city.
“If the opportunity presented
itself, we’d love to supply other
retailers in the city,” said Gabrielle Gulielmetti, co-owner of the
bakery.
Doing it the hard way
Similarly, Foragers picks up
washed and packaged baby lettuces
from
Obercreek
Farm
in
Hughesville, N.Y. Obercreek coowner Tim Wildfong met the couple a few years ago at a farming conference.
Starting in June, when the
growing season hits its stride,
Obercreek will supply Foragers—
its only city-based client—with
about 120 packaged lettuces a
week.
“It’s incredibly difficult to do
what Foragers is doing to curate
these products from local farms,”
said Mr. Wildfong. “It would be so
easy for them to make a phone call
to one of the big produce suppliers
and have their order arrive on their
doorstep the next day. Our product is affected by local weather
conditions.”
But the couple is committed to
their business model and would
like to open more stores in Manhattan. Married for 17 years, they
left successful careers in the movie
industry to get into the food
business.
They met on the set of a Harrison Ford and Brad Pitt movie,
where Mr. Lamb was the scenic
artist and Ms. Castellani was a
camera assistant.
“When we opened the business,”
she said, “I wanted a store that I
would shop in,something that looks
like someone thought for me.” Ⅲ
by Aaron Elstein
Where the experts
go for expert advice
A
lexander Saint-Amand business?
is chief executive of People perceive the greatest risk is
Gerson
Lehrman that some expert will disclose someGroup Inc., a New thing he or she shouldn’t. We have
York-based firm whose developed extensive compliance and
900 employees specialize in helping audit procedures. In fact, compliance
Wall Street pros make better invest- is a business opportunity for us.
ment decisions by connecting them
with researchers willing to share their The compliance may be immaculate, but
insights. GLG is believed to be the the flesh is weak, right? The difficulty you
largest player in the expert-network have is someone will make a mistake and
industry, which is estimated to gen- divulge more than he should or mean to.
erate $300 million in annual revenue. How does compliance help with that?
But sometimes experts share pri- Any time someone engages a convate information that clients aren’t sultant, there’s a risk something bad
supposed to use to make investment could happen. The question is, does
decisions. For example, after a Uni- GLG enhance or decrease that risk?
versity of Michigan neurology pro- I firmly believe we decrease it. If you
fessor came to regard a hedge-fund want to do something bad, I would
manager whom he met via GLG as a argue this is the worst place to do it.
friend and pupil, the professor allegedly passed along confidential in- Has your business been hurt by insidertrading cases?
formation about the reThe business continues to
sults of a clinical trial for a
grow over the past few
drug to treat Alzheimer’s
years. Our business outdisease. The professor,
side of Wall Street is growwho was paid about
ing faster than the one in$1,000 an hour for his
LE BATEAU IVRE
side it.
consultations, has agreed
230 E. 51st St.
(212) 583-0579
to testify against the fund
www.lebateauivre
Do you worry that you’re being
manager, who last year was
nyc.com
watched by prosecutors?
charged with insider tradWe assume the business is
ing after betting against
AMBIENCE:
Classic Parisian
under appropriate and regthe stocks of the compabistro à vins
ular scrutiny.
nies developing the drug.
WHAT THEY ATE:
Mr. Saint-Amand’s firm
Ⅲ Tomato and
So if I’m in drug development
hasn’t been charged.
WHERE
THEY
DINED
How did you get involved in
your corner of Wall Street?
mozzarella salad,
grilled salmon
and vegetables
Ⅲ Asparagus
soup, blood
pudding
Ⅲ One glass of
Burgundy
TOTAL: $95.66,
including tip
at Pfizer, for example, and I’m
getting paid to talk to your
clients, does Pfizer know?
The company started in
1998 as a publisher specializing in technical
books. But no one wanted
to read them; they just
wanted to talk to the people who wrote them. The
market at the time was looking for alternatives to traditional Wall Street
research, which was seen as conflicted,and we picked up a few private investment firms as clients. Now we
have 1,200 clients and work with investment firms, major strategic consultancies, life-science companies
and law firms. And we help companies find board members.
In general, yes, but not always specifically. The example you’re giving describes the minority of our
cases. Most of our consultants are academics or
maybe the CEO themselves. We send letters by the thousands to companies like Pfizer and
let them know about GLG and ask
their permission for outside consulting.
What do you charge for your
matchmaking service?
Sounds stressful. How do you cope?
It starts at $30,000 for a small client
and into the millions for a large one.
I’d say the median rate is in the hundreds of thousands.
What is the greatest risk facing your
So companies must grant permission
before their people can talk?
They have the opportunity to block
their people from participating.
You start with the joy of learning and
the joy of teaching. Everyone needs
to learn more and become better
connected. If you believe you can affect that, it’s really exciting. Only if
you start there can you accept the fact
that there is risk. Ⅲ
INSIDE TIP: Don’t ask Mr. Saint-Amand if
he wants an espresso. Too much caffeine
makes him break out in hives.
http://www.lebateauivrenyc.com
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Crains New York - May 27, 2013
In the Boroughs
In the Markets
Small Business
The Insider
Business People
Opinion
Alair Townsend
Greg David
Steve Hindy
Report: Largest Companies
The List
Classifieds
For the Record
Real Estate Deals
New York, New York
Source Lunch
Out and About
Snaps
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