design:retail - April/May 2016 - (Page 34)
shopping with paco
034
It's Prom
Season
PACO UNDERHILL
CEO & FOUNDER
ENVIROSELL
p.underhill@envirosell.com
F
OR SO MANY American
teenage girls, the seminal
social event of the year is
the prom. The dress, the
make-up, the hair and
the chance to slip the bonds of
jeans and work-out pants. But, the
event that many of us remember is
now going through a transformation driven by social media and the
evolution of sexuality. For those of
us that came of age 30 years ago, we
remember the agony of exclusion-
wondering whom to ask or whether
you'd be asked. Somehow the few
in the in-crowd had it figured out;
the rest suffered. I always associated my prom experiences with
acne breakouts.
Social historians root the origin
of proms in the late-19th century as a form of social
training. Even the word, which is a shortened form
of "promenade," is the act of parading to be seen.
The social elite sent their children to cotillions to
learn formal dances. What started with a coat and
tie and Sunday School dress somehow morphed
into something else. For the guy, it was renting the
tux, paying for the corsage, and figuring out how
to get there and back with the least amount of
embarrassment. How many coming-of-age teenage movies were rooted in prom disasters? Yet hand
it to a new generation of teens just as interested in
coming of age, but smart enough to cut through
the mustard and figure out how to have a guaranteed good time. And, more importantly, recognize
a generation of empowered young women ready to
change the paradigm.
Today's girls are not waiting to be asked; prom
participation is not date-dependent anymore. In
fact, the girls are realizing they have a better time
and potentially make a bigger social splash if they
APRIL/MAY 2016
DESIGNRETAILONLINE.COM
choose to go with their girlfriends rather than
with a date.
Thanks to services like Rent the Runway and
reality shows like "Say Yes to the Dress," a teenage
girl's fashion sophistication has changed dramatically in the 21st century. One interesting result of
that growing sophistication is that Internet sales of
prom dresses over the past five years have declined
as girls realized that going cheap has potential
social costs. The purpose is clear: none of the Crêpe
de Chine poufy sleeve stuff. We're talking leg slits,
cleavage and cutouts; no one wants to blend in with
the woodwork.
The independent merchants have learned that
layaway works. The girl that comes in February
finds the dress of her dreams, puts 30 percent
down in cash, and then makes weekly deposits
until the dress is paid for. The default rate is
minimal. For both the girls and often the moms,
layaway also works because it is under Daddy's
radar screen. Given the average price is around
GLOBALSHOP.ORG
$400, not counting shoes, bling and
everything else, many fathers are
deeply skeptical of the whole thing.
At Asiye's Boutique in Madison,
Conn., men are discouraged from
coming up to the floor where promwear is sold. With seven dressing
rooms on an early spring Saturday
afternoon, it is estrogen central.
As happy as the girls are, the
closing process has gotten a lot
more complicated and considerably longer as social media has
entered the dressing room. Each
dress gets three selfies-front, back
and side-that are posted for peer
opinion. Thus, the branding of the
dressing room and planning for
the selfies is all part of the guerilla
marketing effort. A reward of free
matching earrings for a five-star posting doesn't
hurt either.
The integration of social media in prom dress
shopping is an accelerant to the industry. Getting free of the need for a date has given even the
wallflowers confidence. The prom continues to be
dominated by small independent merchants willing to focus on a seasonal business. Some negotiate
exclusives with their vendors, giving them the ability to promise their buyers that no one will wear
the same dress to the same function. Layaway is
about a cash sale that the small merchant loves and
the department store can't manage. As the department store industry laments that lack of Millennial
business, deciphering the prom might be part of
the answer.
PACO UNDERHILL IS THE FOUNDER OF ENVIROSELL AND AUTHOR OF
THE BOOKS "WHY WE BUY" AND "WHAT WOMEN WANT." HE SHARES
HIS RETAIL AND CONSUMER INSIGHTS WITH DESIGN:RETAIL IN THIS
BI-ISSUE COLUMN.
Photo courtesy of THINKSTOCK/MONKEY BUSINESS IMAGES/STOCKBROKER
http://www.DESIGNRETAILONLINE.COM
http://www.GLOBALSHOP.ORG
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of design:retail - April/May 2016
design:retail - April/May 2016
Table of Contents
Editor’s Note
On Trend
On Trend
We Love This!
Designer Picks
Clicks & Mortar
Inspirations
Postcard
Mingle
Have You Heard?
Perspectives
Shopper Insights
Shopping with Paco
20th Annual Markopoulos Award
The Markopoulos Circle Past
Heritage
Oiselle
40 Under 40
GlobalShop Roundup
Products
Backstory
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