Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 9, 2014 - 18

Selecting barrels
Jordan's barrel selection process has always been rigorous.
Once harvest is complete, the specific attributes of each
barrel are thoroughly investigated, through a series of
tastings, for its potential compatibility with each and every
vintage of Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
Basically, coopers must try out for their jobs each year. If
noted barrel producers change in quality or fundamental
style, they may be removed from or added to the Jordan
barrel-aging program, depending on what those changes
contribute to the wine. Just because a particular type of
barrel contributed to a previous vintage has little influence
on its potential to contribute to the current vintage. Every
vintage begins with a clean slate.
Unlike the typical practices of many wineries, at Jordan,
barrels are specifically chosen for the vintage after its
personality has presented itself, not prior to the harvest.
This connection only comes through spending time in the
vineyards, constantly tasting the grapes during the growing
season, and sampling the juice during crush and after the
completion of both primary and malolactic fermentation.
Once we are carefully acquainted with the new vintage,
samples of the previous vintage, still going through the
élevage process, are pulled for the purpose of these tasting
sessions. Each member of the winemaking team sits in our
technical tasting room with a pen, a tasting sheet, a spit cup
and a line-up of glasses sporting randomized numbers (a
technique used to eliminate any outside influence). The wine
from the previous vintage in each glass is exactly the same
in regards to vineyard block and variety blending; the only
difference is the oak barrel it was aged in.
The notes recorded on the tasting sheets during these sessions
are not riddled with wine geekery. We use ratings like low,
medium, medium-plus or high. At the end of the day, the
most important question is, "Does it taste good?" Sure,
we'll be assessing other quality queues and asking more
questions of each sample. Does the oak treatment overpower

18

and mask the fruit? What effect does the oak have on the
acidity, mouthfeel and body of the wine? Does it add aromas
and flavors that are not in sync with the fruit or with the
Jordan style? Or, does it beautifully integrate with and
complement the fruit? The tannin structure is analyzed in a
similar manner, as the oak will impart additional tannin to
the wine. From the attack to the mid-palate and all the way
through the finish, it is amazing how each type of barrel can
so drastically change the composition and perception of the
finished wine.
There is a twist: All of these evaluations are done blind.
The objective of the tastings is to identify how each of the
different barrels has contributed to that vintage's personality,
and based off of those results, to make an educated, unbiased
and responsible decision as to not only whether or not it
would contribute well to the new vintage, but if so, in what
percentage of the overall barrel program. Easy, right?
It is not as simple as it may seem, as not all barrels are the
same. There are many different coopers to choose from, and
options of barrel type and style will often be available from
each cooper, whether they are different sizes, made from the
trees of different forests, or have varying toast levels. Every
barrel, even if the same make and model, will be slightly
different. In fact, all 31 staves that make up a barrel will
likely be different from each other. Just as it is imperative for
winemakers to understand the personality of each vintage's
grapes, it is equally important for us to understand the
personality of the barrels, and to determine whether or not
those personalities complement each other.

Oak evolution

American oak was the foundation for Jordan Cabernet
Sauvignon back in the 1970s and 1980s, making up about
50% of the barrels employed. Like many pioneers during the
California wine "Gold Rush," we believed that American
oak was a natural complement to a California Cabernet.
Now, we are challenging that paradigm.
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 9, 2014

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 9, 2014
