Jordan Wine Country Table - Vol. 16, 2021 - 47

FOOD
PICK y our PR O TEIN
For Knoll, the cut of meat is almost as important
for cabernet pairings as the marinade or rub. " The
younger the wine, the more fatty and char-forward
the cut of meat needs to be-like a ribeye steak, " he
says. " You want to subdue the tannins in younger
wines and highlight the fruit. "
Both fats and proteins tame the tannins in
cabernet sauvignon, allowing the subtle notes
of fruit and spice to be more pronounced on
the palate. While fat and protein bind with the
tannins, there is a perception in the mouth that the
tannins are softened. The char masks the tannin
by overpowering it.
Despite its leaner profile, brisket is one of
Knoll's go-to barbecue meats to pair with Jordan
Cabernet Sauvignon. " Because of the low-andslow
cooking process, the meat develops an outer
crust, or bark, that adds a wonderful textural
dimension to the pairing, " he says. " Brisket was
made to go with Bordeaux-style reds like Jordan.
Rich, complex flavors develop in the meat during
the long cooking time, just as a cabernet gains
complexity in the barrel. You just can't replicate
that with a steak on the grill. "
While Jordan Cabernet pairs beautifully with
beef, Knoll's absolute favorite pairing is a perfectly
cooked rack of Sonoma lamb. " Lamb with the
cabernet is just a given, " he says. " It's a slam dunk. "
Knoll recommends applying rubs to large cuts
of meat two hours prior to grilling or smoking,
allowing the rub to react with the protein and
come to room temperature.
Now, the burning question is what to do first:
fire up the grill or open the bottle of cabernet?
" Brisket was made to go with Bordeaux-style reds
like Jordan. Rich, complex flavors develop in the
meat during cooking time, just as a cabernet gains
complexity in the barrel. "
EXECUTIVE CHEF TODD KNOLL
Brisket Rub Noir
Sonoma Lamb
Wet Mop Marinade
INGREDIENTS
¼ cup Jordan Estate Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 sweet onion, sliced
3 garlic cloves (black garlic preferred)
1 tsp cumin, freshly toasted and ground
1 Tbsp coriander, freshly toasted and ground
6 sprigs thyme, minced leaves
6 sprigs marjoram, minced
1 Tbsp Kosher salt
1 tsp Aleppo chili flakes
1 tsp sumac
2 tsp pepper, freshly ground
INS TR UC TIONS
Purée all ingredients together. Rub on lamb
and allow to sit for 2-4 hours in the fridge.
Brush off the rub and grill.
Makes 2 racks
INGREDIENTS
1 cup sel gris, ground
2 cups maple sugar
½ cup espresso beans, ground
½ cup coffee nibs, ground
(black cocoa may be substituted)
3 Tbsp coarse black pepper
1½ Tbsp cumin
2 Tbsp ground garlic
1 Tbsp onion powder
1 Tbsp porcini powder*
1 Tbsp piment d'Espelette
(smoked paprika may
be substituted)
INS TR UC TIONS
Combine all ingredients.
Store in a mason jar or airtight
container and keep in the pantry
for up to one month.
* Available from Wine
Forest Wild Foods
WINECOUNTRYTABLE.COM 47
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Jordan Wine Country Table - Vol. 16, 2021

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