Georgia Magazine - October 2012 - (Page 33)

“There are good reasons for (the higher cost),” says Faunce. “One of them is the reduced density in the flock. We have to make sure that our farmers don’t get economically shortchanged, so we pay a higher price per bird.” The additional cost hasn’t stopped restaurateurs from enthusiastically using Springer Mountain chicken, among them Moon Spin Pizzeria in Thomasville and 306 North in Valdosta. But for some consumers and chefs, “pastured” poultry is something to seek out. Now, there’s even an association of Georgians for Pastured Poultry. This poultry spends its life foraging for food, although most producers supple- Made with White Oak Pastures chicken, this Georgia Coq au Muscadine is best made a day or two ahead of serving. See page 36A of this month’s digital edition, online at www. ment with feed grain. In Bluffton, near Albany, White georgiamagazine.org, for the recipe. Oak Pastures now has a pastured-poultry slaughter/processing operation to at several restaurants, including Hugh a month at Savannah River Farm. dress not only the free-range chickens Acheson’s Empire State South in Retail customers will find the chickit produces but also ducks, turkeys and Atlanta and at Billy Allin’s Cakes & ens at the Forsyth Farmers Market in Ale in Decatur, named one of Bon Savannah and the markets in Statesgeese in season. “We turn out some 700 birds a Appétit magazine’s “Hot 10” restau- boro and Augusta. Chef Christopher day,” says Jenni Harris, daughter of rants in the United States in their DiNello at Savannah’s Alligator Soul is a fan of these chickens, which are White Oak Pastures’ Will Harris. She September 2012 issue. Dover raises Freedom Ranger, a mixed-breed Rhode Island Red and explains that large conventional producers by contrast process as many as a French breed, he says. They take White Rock. Starting out raising grass-fed beef, 200,000 birds an hour. White Oak pays at least 12 weeks to come to market for an on-site-required FDA inspector, weight, about twice as long as con- Del and Debra Ferguson’s Hunter another element that adds to the cost. ventionally raised chickens, and that’s Cattle Co. in nearby Bulloch County Sold at Whole Foods, at area farmers another factor that adds to their cost. is branching out into free-range poultry. Daughter Kristan Fretwell says, markets and at the facility in Bluff“We raise 200 chickens every couple ton, the chickens cost about $4.99 per pound, making a whole chicken cost Georgia poultry’s estimated of months,” adding that the flock includes a variety of breeds. between $15-$20. annual economic impact Craig Hutchins, of Heritage Farm Produced on a much smaller scale in Bowdon, raises not only chickens, than conventionally raised chicken, exceeds $18.4 billion, more than half the state’s total but also ducks and turkeys. His meat pasture-raised chicken is the specialty flock numbers about 1,200 birds at of numerous small farmers throughout agricultural income. various stages of production and anGeorgia. Part of what increases the other 20-50 turkeys. Like other small price of their chicken yet again over Also raising Freedom Ranger producers, Hutchins sells his chickthose produced “naturally” is the lack of processing facilities, such as those at is Brandon Chonko at Grass Roots ens at area farmers markets. Farms, near Reidsville. Chonko does While pastured poultry seems to White Oak Pastures. Daniel Dover of the highly re- free-range quail and has many fans be on the rise, Hutchins says there spected Darby Farms in Good Hope, among local chefs, including Dave are hurdles to surmount. One hurdle is supply, as these near Athens, trucks his poultry to Snyder at Halyards and Tramici in North Carolina for slaughter and pro- St. Simons and Tybee Island’s super small operations simply don’t turn cessing, a step that adds, he says, casual North Beach Grill. Chonko’s out the quantity of even a Springer another $2 per bird to the cost of influence extends all the way to At- Mountain operation, which produces bringing it to market. As a result, a lanta, where One-Eared Stag uses his anywhere from 23 to 25 million birds, according to spokesman Faunce. Yet package of four chicken legs (big chicken. In Screven County, Ben and Kel- chefs are forging ahead with pasones, admittedly) costs $26. Nonetheless, his chickens have been featured lie Deen raise about 1,000 chickens tured poultry despite short supply. October 2012 jane F. Garvey More online at www.georgiamagazine.org 33 http://www.georgiamagazine.org http://www.georgiamagazine.org http://www.georgiamagazine.org

Georgia Magazine - October 2012

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Georgia Magazine - October 2012