Georgia Magazine - June 2021 - 38

GEORGIA Cooks

By Jane F. Garvey

C

orn is native to North America and was an important food source
for colonizing Europeans who settled in New England in the 1600s.
Despite being unfamiliar with it, the newcomers embraced it,
and by 1798 corn appeared in the first American cookbook, " American
Cookery " by Amelia Simmons.
Simmons' cookbook documented early America's changing culinary
landscape and was the first to feature cornmeal, a staple of Native American cooking, as a substitution for oats found in English recipes. Simmons'
cookbook included three versions of Indian pudding, made from cornmeal,
milk, eggs, raisins and spices, as well as other corn-based recipes such as
johnnycakes and Indian slapjacks.
From America, corn spread worldwide, although in some countries-
notably France and Germany-it's considered fit only for animal feed. Not
so in northern Italy, where polenta is a staple. Until corn appeared there in
the 16th century, polenta was made from other grains, notably buckwheat.
Today, it's typically made of ground yellow corn.
According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, corn was America's
largest grain crop in 2019, supplying human food, animal food and
even fuel.
University of Georgia Extension agronomist Corey Bryant says that's
also true for Georgia.
" The last couple of years, [Georgia has grown] around 400,000 acres
of corn, " he says, noting that about half of that is in South Georgia, and the
majority is field corn.

Versatile varieties
The many varieties of corn provide a range of colors and tastes
Protein-rich blue corn is popular in Southwestern dishes. Red corn

38

Georgia Magazine

38-40_Cooks_0621.indd 38

PICTURE GEORGIA

LIZ PORTER

Corn: the crop that sustains

Sweet corn

Top: Liz Porter of Buckeye Creek Farm in Hickory Flat says
that about 20 percent of the corn she grows is a red variety. Her grits are sought-out by restaurateurs in Atlanta.

has more starch than yellow corn does and has a
nutty flavor.
Most consumers want sweet corn, and that's
what's typically available in grocery stores and at
farmers markets. To enjoy fresh corn at its best,
choose cobs that feel full in the husk (no need to
pull down the husk), with moist silks and tight
leaves. Make sure there are no pinholes from worm
invasion.
Ideally, little time should elapse between
harvesting and cooking it. Local farmers market
vendors sell corn that likely left the stalks the night
before being driven to market. Prepare corn the
day you purchase it for maximum flavor and
nutritional value.
Just as corn kept pre-Columbian cultures
well-nourished, it sustains much of contemporary
civilization.
Jane F. Garvey is a freelance food, wine and
travel writer from Decatur.

June 2021

5/11/21 9:23 PM



Georgia Magazine - June 2021

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Georgia Magazine - June 2021

Contents
Georgia Magazine - June 2021 - Intro
Georgia Magazine - June 2021 - Cover1
Georgia Magazine - June 2021 - Cover2
Georgia Magazine - June 2021 - Contents
Georgia Magazine - June 2021 - 4
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Georgia Magazine - June 2021 - Cover3
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