Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1984 - 24

RESEARCH

by Kevin L. Seligman

Costume Pattern Drafts
Three Blouses
The following pattern drafts are from Prof. Agostino D'Alessio, D'Alessio
Dress Designer for WOJllellS, Misses & Juniors Wais{s and Dresses ( ew York:
D'Alessio Academy of Art and Design, 1929), pp. 32-9,44-5. The three blouse
patterns are drafted from existing front and back slopers. All patterns described
in drafts are size 16 (Proportional Measurements: Bust 37"; Waist 30"; Hips
38 "). Patterns include seam allowances where necessary; heavy lines indicate
cUlling lines. (See introduction to book in TD& T, Summer 1980, p. 19.)

Kimono Blouse

Kimono Long Sleeve Blouse

Taking the back sloper first, from
the Point marked (I) measure 2 Y2
inches to Point marked (2).
At Point (3), which is the regular
shoulder, measure Y2 inch up to Point
(4), draw a line connecting Point (5)
with Point (4) and extend this line until
the space from Point (5) to Point (6)
measures 10 inches.
ow at Point (2) square off this
Point and draw the line out in the direction of Point (7) and measure from
Point (2) to Point (7) 2 inches and connect Point (2) with Point (7), and Point
(7) with Point (6). Make a curve as
shown at Point (2). This completes the
back.
ow take the front at Point (I)
again measure 2 Y2 inches to Point
marked (2).
At Point (3) measure up Y2 inch to
Point (4), draw a line connecting Point
(5) with Point (4) and extend this line
until the space from Point (5) to Point
(6) measures 10 inches.
ow at Poil1l (2) square off thi
Point and draw the line out in the direction of Point (7) and measure from
Point (2) to Point (7) 2 inches and connect Point (2) with Point (7), and Point
(7) with Point (6). Make a curve at
Point (2), as sho\\'n. This complete the
entire kimono draft with hart leeves.

For long sleeves, the width of the
sleeve is necessary to be made wider at
the armhole and in order to do so we
will start with the back.
Drawa line from Point (5) to Point
(8), which is the junction of the neck
line and the armhole, and continue this
line until it measures 26 inches, from
Point (5) to Point (9).
Square off at this Point and measure 6 inches, for Point (10), connect
Point (10) with Point (7). Poil1l (II) is
Y2 inch from Point (10) and connect
Point (II), with Point (9) by a curved
line as shown. Do the same with the
front.
This then completes the long sleeve
Kimono Waist, as shown by dotted
lines.

22

Thcalrc Dc,il(1l & TcchIlClICll(~

Raglan Sleeve Blouse
Starting with a back sloper, at point
marked (1) measure 2 Y2 inches to poil1l
marked (2). Point (3) is the regular
shoulder line. Point (4) is the neck line.
Draw a line connecting Point (5) with
Point (4) and extend this line until the
space from Point (5) to (6) measures
26 inches.
a\\' at Point (6) square off thi
point in the direction of Point (7) and
measure from Point (6) to Point (7)
6 inches.

USITT /'all 19,'.j

Now connect Point (2) with Point
(7) and make a curve at Point (2) as
shown. From Point (7) to Point (X) is
Y2 of an inch. Connect Point (X) with
Point (6) by curve as shown.
ivleasure at Point (5) towards Point
(8), I inch and connect this point with
Point (2). Point(9)isone-halfofspace
plus 1 inch from Point (2) to Point (8).
Place your square touching at Point
(I) on line just made and make line as
shown from Point (I) down.
You will notice at this line there are
three circles much smaller than the
others they are marked (IX, 2X, 3X).
2X is the center one and from this
point measure Y2 of an inch each way
for Points (I X) and (3X). These poil1l~
are for the purpose of hawing ho\\
much of a curve you will need.
0\\
take and make curves as shown from
point (2) to Point (9) touching Point~
(I X) and (3X) and using them as your
guide. Trace the sleeve out and at Point
(8) follow line to Point (9) to Point
(3X) and then to Point (2) and allo\\
for seam on this line.
Trace the back now and at Point (8;
follow line to Point (9) to Point (I X;
then to Point (2) and allow for seam on
this line. This completes the back.
ow take the front and again follo\\
the sketch for the front the same way a~
you did for the back a the measurements are the same for all the numeral~
except at Point (8) which is [1 2 inclw
from Point (5).
This completes the entire raglar
sleeve blouse.
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1984
