Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1992 - 55

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Edwardian Ladies' Tailoring: The
Twentieth Centu11 System Of
Ladies' Garment Cutting (1910)

sketches precede each section. One
exception is Styles in Girls' Sailor Blouses, where each of 12 patterns is accompanied by a line drawing. This is the case
with hoods as well, as it would be impossible to predict the shape and hang from
the pattern alone.

rion to being an experienced ladies' cutter, he was widely known and respected
in England as a Federation lecturer on
ladies' garment cutting.
by J. C. Hopkins. 4th Edition. Mendocino, CA: R. L. Shep,
Shep has given us a fine 8 1/2" by
1990. ISBN 0-914046-10-1 (paper), 294pp.. ill., 524.95.
11" edition. The quality of reproduction
Tailorin$ ofthe Belle Epoque:
is excellent. Because of the lack of fashion
Vincents tystems of
sketches and ro give a
Cutting all kinds
better idea of the look of
of TailOr-Made
the period, he has added
Carments (1903)
nine pages of garments,
BOOK REVIEWS
by \VI. D. F. Vincent. Revised ediaccessories and under[ion, Five Parts in One Volume.
garments from Correct
Mendocino, CA: R. L. Shep, 1991.
Dress, Fall & Winter
ISB I 0-914046-II-X (paper),
1908-9, a
ew York
mail order house catalogue_
278pp., ill., 524.95.
Hopkins has included a large number
of fully developed patterns within each of
Vincent is probably rhe best known
the ten parrern section, 90 plates of patR.L. Shep is doing great service to the
author of tailoring books of the late nineterns in all, 15 of which are devoted to
costume industry and to academic costeenth to early twentieth century. Most
tuming by undertaking to reprint valuriding garments. Because of the great
theatrical designers and cosrumers are
able our-of-print texts. These two edited
variety of styles of equestrienne wear,
familiar with The Tailor and Cutter for
more illustrations are included here than
reprints are numbers nine and ten in
which he was editor for 29 years until
elsewhere.
what is hoped by all in the Costume
shorrly before his death in 1926. He also
headed the Tailor and Cutter Academy in
Commission will be a continuing series.
In addition to the patterns and
Several of the reprints have been done at
instructions, Hopkins gives a four-page
London and was a noted teacher and curthe suggestion of members of the Comintroduction on the measurement and
ter himself. He authored many scientific
mISSIOn.
cutting system. His last chapter, Balance
and practical works for tailors including
and Disproportion, includes, along with
Edwardian Ladies' Tailoring was first
The Cutters' Practical Guide. With Tailorpublished in England in 1900, with
instruction for measuring various "dising ofthe Belle Epoque he gave us a basic,
updates through the decade. Since it was
proportions," The Large Bodice, with
straightforward tailoring book of gar42" bust and 30" waist. That in itself ments for men and women covering a
modified rather than completely revised
over the years, the garments reflect the
wide range of garments and styles.
would make the book worrh buying. He
Originally a five-part series of books,
conservative style that evolved prior to
follows this with instruction for direct
World War I. While dresses still tended
here combined into one volume, Vincent
measuring, fitting and alterations. The
to be somewhat soft and fussy, tailoring
book concludes with an appendix: Direct
aimed at clarity and conciseness, wishing
of suits, coats, capes, etc. moved toward
Measurements, with full instructions,
to make available a handy sized, affordthe elegant but severe. In this edition
able reference. He had by this time,
illustrations and five basic pattern drafts.
Hopkins has substituted up-to-date garThis technical work and the three
1903, refined and simplified his method
ments for some less popular styles. In his
earlier editions were expensive for the
inro the systems he presents here. He
preface, Shep notes that the tailoring sysmanages to convey in a concise manner
time, and the publishers expressed gratitem used is a "Minister System." Having
tude that they had become standard
all that one needs to understand and execure the patterns.
used it myself, I can arrest to its being
works of the tailoring profession. What is
one of the better systems.
amazing about the diagrams, instructions
Parr I deals with men's rrousers,
The Hopkins work comprises
and Hopkins approach is the simplicity
breeches, knickers, pantaloons, leggings
bodices, vests, jackets, ulsters (fitted,
of language and explanations which
and gaiters and waistcoats. His introducoften caped, coats), cloaks, riding garmade this work accessible to students of tion to the system and insrructions for
ments, shirrs and blouses, skirts, sleeves,
the day and makes it so valuable and
taking measurements precedes the dialapels, collars and hoods. The text is basiaccessible to us today. Hopkins' was well
grams and patrern curring instructions.
cally the full page pattern faced by a page
qualified to write on tailoring. In addiThe coverage is comprehensive, includof description
and
ing not only various
instructions. There are
styles and cuts, bur body
few direct illustrations of
shapes as well. He
SYLVIA HILLYARD, EDITOR
the actual garmen ts, bur
includes
day
and
in many cases representaevening wear, sport, miltive Minister Co. fashion
itary and clerical styles .

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TD&T

1992 SPRING

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1992