Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2004 - 21

It is unknown if this trunk contained the entire costume wardrobe
of the Campbell Duo but if not, it is certainly a significant portion. A close
inspection of these garments reveals how just a few patterns were used to
build a variety of costumes using different fabrics and trims. The varied
construction techniques, some professional, some rough or sloppy, and
some obviously to facilitate quick changes, invite speculation into the
history and mind-set of these sisters.

THE VAUDEVILLE COSTUMES
Most of the costumes are very petite, fitting our student model, Katherine
Dupret, who is a size 0-4. However, some were tighter on her than others. We have no conclusions to draw about the sizing from the little information we have to date. The patterns are the sizes of the garments with
no seam allowances. The scale is 1 square = 1 inch unless otherwise
stated.
Costume A is an ornate blue and silver ensemble of bodice and
pantaloons. The bodice is made of a heavyweight cotton base with multiple machine-made trims attached (fig. A1 and pattern 2). It is constructed of four different beaded trims, three types of appliqués, 42˝
bugle bead fringe, 24˝ bugle bead fringe, and strips of blue silk satin.
The trims are machine made, with hand-beaded embellishment. All of
the beads on this bodice are white or smoke glass. The sleeves are simply
two pieces of twill tape with beaded trim attached to drape over the upper arm (fig. A4). The sleeve trim is folded and draped into the center
back (fig. A5). The wired pockets-like embellishments (fig. A6) are attached to the bodice at the side seams, and are shaped with what appears
to be bent coat hangers. The blue silk satin portion is backed with silver
lamé and finished with 5˝ beaded tassels.

Blue silk satin pantaloons match the bodice. They are made of one
piece of fabric folded in half at the crotch and attached to a high waistband of a contrasting blue satin. Leg openings are cut out of the fabric,
and the selvedge edges are stitched creating the side seams. The fabric is
39˝ wide and is gathered unevenly into the waistband and attached leg bands.
The leg bands have 12˝ bugle bead trim attached to them (fig. A2).
A matching hat completes the costume (fig. A3). It is covered with the
same beaded trims found on the bodice. The hat is wired with wings at the
sides, in a pattern (pattern 1) that is repeated for all of the hats in this
collection.
Costumes B, C and D, which are black, green, and pale pink respectively, are all variations of the same baby-doll bubble/jumper pattern. The fabrics in all three have significant dry rot. The pink silk piece
is the most delicate, and is disintegrating.
The bodice pattern (pattern 4) is a simple rectangle, with a slight
2˝ dip at the underarm. The pantaloon pants are all open at the crotch,
with bands of fabric attached as pant cuffs (pattern 4 and figs. B2, B4,
C1, D2, D3). The cuffs are closed with elastic at the inseam, possibly to
facilitate under dressing or a quick change. The black and green jumpers both have apron-like overlays, with different embellishment (figs. B1,
B4, C1, C3). The pink jumper is heavily beaded on the bodice and
around the pocket openings (fig. D2). These openings, at the sides of the
jumpers, are not practical pockets, since they reach to the open crotch. While
serving no practical purpose for these garments by themselves, they may
have given access to an undergarment that contained some type of prop
or sight gag.

WHO WERE THE CAMPBELL SISTERS?
The Campbell Duo was a Vaudeville sister act documented to have performed in Chicago in the early part of the twentieth century. One of the sisters, Leola C. Donald (1901-1983) was married at the age of twenty-five to Harry S. Donald of Calumet, Michigan. At this time, Calumet was still
a bustling city built upon the prosperity of the copper mines of the area. Upon the death of their daughter, Jayne Lee Donald (1934-2000), the
family home and its contents were willed to the Calumet United Methodist Church. In the attic was a trunk containing these costumes, a few
other garments, and some Chicago Vaudeville newspapers that had belonged to Leola and her sister during their Vaudeville career. The church
then gave these costumes to the Friends of Fashion in nearby Chassell, Michigan, a museum group dedicated to the preservation of vintage clothing and to educating the public with historical presentations.
Little is known about the Campbell Duo act. Census information from 1930 indicates the sisters were originally from Wisconsin. Some contemporary residents of Calumet observed that they remember that Leola was "in the theatre." In 1919, a review of the Campbell Duo act by Robert Conkey, a reporter for the Chicago Vaudeville newspaper, was mostly positive:
"At the Calumet theatre, South Chicago, daily matinees are offered to very good houses, and Manager Rayfield presents bills of excellent quality.
"Campbell Duo - Two women who secure many laughs and frequent applause with a consistent singing and talking skit along rural lines.
One portrays an unusually good character throughout, while the other makes two changes of beautiful costumes and is equally good in the character delineation. As visitors to the city, they afford much mirth and merriment. The Campbell Duo has improved wonderfully since last seen and
did what is looked at as stopping the show." (Chicago Vaudeville, Vol. 1, No. 31, March 22, 1919)
The Calumet Theatre mentioned in the review no longer exists. It was located on South Chicago Avenue at 92nd Street, across from the
Drake Memorial Fountain (still standing). It was built in the early part of the twentieth century, obviously before 1919, so was somewhat new at
the time of the Campbell Duo. It seated 950. Due to mentions of the Orpheum Circuit in the Chicago Vaudeville, it may have been a part of that
Vaudeville circuit.
[Editor's note: The authors, as well as members of the Friends of Fashion, continue to search local records for more information regarding the Campbell Duo and their Vaudeville career. TD&T welcomes any insights readers may have concerning additional resources
on Vaudeville costumes or on the lives of the Campbell sisters. Please send your comments to the editor at David_Rodger@usitt.org.]

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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2004