Impressions - October 2018 - 39

Remember, using the smallest recommended
needle makes the smallest penetration hole,
and this should be the goal.
For very small lettering or fine detail
that is sewn with a 60-weight thread, a
#65/9 or #70/10 works best. For a thick,
12-weight thread - such as wool or cotton blends - a larger #100/16 needle
is the best choice. As the thread weight
increases in number, the best needle size
decreases, and vice versa.
When embroidering on a structured
cap, the center seam can be a challenge.
The twill fabric often is stiff, made worse
by a sizing that is added to the fabric to
help the cap keep its shape.Also, a buckram
lining and the extra center-seam thickness
all require extra skill to keep the design
registered correctly.
Use a sharp-point needle, not a ballpoint
needle, on caps. Beyond that, the thread
size determines needle size. One trick is
to apply steam to the cap's center seam.
This removes the sizing and softens the
interlining, which helps tame the cap.
Remember, using the smallest recommended needle makes the smallest
penetration hole, and this should be the
goal.The smaller the holes in the fabric,
the better the result will be. Sometimes
using a large-eye needle allows you to go
down a size. Some embroiderers swear
by titanium needles for their strength or
non-stick embedded needles for reducing
friction when sewing caps.
3.What's the best way to embroider performancewear? Which backing
to use; how to keep it from puckering;
hooping the slippery, stretchy stuff known
as performancewear - there are tons of
questions on how to master embroidering
this fabric. According to Cotton Incorporated, nine out of 10 consumers say
they wear performancewear for activities
other than exercise alone. It's a multibillion-dollar industry sector that's
showing no signs of slowing down.
"Think light" should be the rule
of thumb in approaching customers'
troubles with performancewear. Avoid
high-stitch-count designs and keep density to a minimum. Try a light underlay
to help stabilize and fill.
Remember, the nature of performancewear is that it stretches with the wearer, so
the more stitches you add, the more you
impede its ability to stretch.Therein lies

Needle sizes should be
changed to run some specialty
threads properly.This small
design was stitched using
75-weight polyester and a
#60/8 needle.

Choosing a backing
that is too heavy for
performancewear will produce
the "badge effect," where
backing is visible around
the sewout.

the challenge, so consider push-and-pull
compensation when working with the
fabrics used in these garments.
Avoid hooping performancewear garments too tightly.Adjust the hoop so that
it barely holds the garment minus the

lightweight backing.When it is correctly
hooped, there should be minimal stretch.
Using the smallest-possible hoop promotes
this, while also minimizing the garment's
potential for movement while stitching.
OCT./NOV. 2018

P.39
Impressions - October 2018

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