Impressions - February 2019 - 34

Burmilana is a heavy, size 12,
wool-blend embroidery thread that
gives a hand-embroidered look. It
currently is popular for simulating
fur and feathers. Photo courtesy of
Madeira USA.

threads, the company recommends using
a light density of 9 points, which is a
dramatic contrast with typical densities of
3 or 4 points for 40-weight thread.These
blended threads are spun from wool and
acrylic, and cotton and acrylic, respectively.
Gunold's Filaine thread is 100% acrylic
and also is size 12. The lighter density
required by these threads allows embroiderers to cover an area with significantly
fewer stitches. Interestingly enough, the
thick thread is light on the garment, allowing large designs to be appropriate
on lightweight fabrics.
The 100% polyester Vintage thread from DIME comes in
two versions: size 15, called Rope, and a matte version of size
40 for smaller design elements and accents. All of the thicker
threads require a needle with a wider groove and larger eye to
reduce friction. For commercial machines that use a roundshank needle, use a size 90 or 100. For crossover machines that
use a flat-shank needle, a size 90 or 100 embroidery or topstitch
needle is recommended.
At the other end of the size spectrum are the small-diameter
threads. Most thread companies offer a size 60 thread in a more
limited color range for better clarity in fine detail and small

The retro trend in retail
apparel is created here using
15-weight polyester Vintage
Rope by DIME.
P.34

I M P R E S S I O N S M A G . C O M FEBRUARY 2019

lettering. Madeira also offers a size 75, which is even smaller in
diameter. Just as with the thicker threads, a compatible needle is
needed for best results when using fine, small-diameter threads.
The needle's groove plays the role of guiding the thread to
its eye. A needle with a smaller blade and a narrower groove
does a better job of guiding a fine thread to the eye, resulting
in better stitch quality and clarity.
Specialty Threads
Color: Fortunately, thread companies continue to support
embroiderers' need for specialty threads, even though the
demand is not as great as that for traditional varieties. For example, variegated threads provide a simple solution to achieving
multicolored embroidery using a single cone.
These threads vary the hues from one or more color families
at regular or random intervals, creating interest and complexity
in certain design types.Variegated thread usually is not suitable
in satin-stitched elements unless a striped appearance is desired.
Robison-Anton developed a "twist" on variegated thread
by creating Twister Tweed, which is made by twisting two different differen thread colors together. It overcomes the striped
appearance in satin stitches and regular-interval fill segments
that occur with the variegated variety of multicolored thread.
It creates a lifelike appearance in plants and animals, and the
tans and grays are ideal for adding realism to brick buildings.
Safety Thread: Fire-resistant and flame-retardant threads
fulfill an important requirement. Gunold offers a polyester
thread in 27 colors with a flame-resistant coating. Madeira
offers a fire-resistant thread, Fire Fighter, in 48 colors.
According to the company, it is made of 100% fire-resistant Aramid fibers containing Nomex by DuPont.
Designed to resist ignition, it prevents flames from
spreading and can self-extinguish when the fire
source is removed.
Metallic Thread: Many embroiderers have a
love-hate relationship with this thread type.They
love the elegant shine but hate the kinks and thread
breaks often associated with it. Some excellent metallic products are available in brand names not as

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Impressions - February 2019

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