2018Q3SpiritedVA - 13

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T

he mystique surrounding fine
whiskey and bourbon invokes
images of dark-paneled bars, of
amber liquid swirling in an Old
Fashioned glass. The words bring
to mind premium aged spirits, like
Pappy Van Winkle, that are rich
on the palate and the price tag.
The myths are numerous, as are
the legends, but both are based on
a reality: that a fine whiskey is a
work of art.
So let's paint a picture, starting
with the basics.
In a nutshell, whiskey is a grainbased distilled spirit, typically
made with malted barley, rye,
corn, wheat or some combination
of those (i.e., the grain bill). The
flavor is affected by the
grain, the malting and
smoking processes,
and the quality of the
distillation process.
Legal definitions of
whiskey specify proof
minimums or maximums for
production and storage, but those
details matter more to the distiller
than the consumer-look on the
bottle for the information you
need.

BOURBON:

THE ALL-AMERICAN LIQUOR
Certain distinctions make
bourbon a very specific type of
whiskey.
01 First, bourbon is whiskey-
though whiskey isn't always
bourbon.
02 Bourbon is made from a
grain bill of at least 51 percent
corn, which provides a touch of
sweetness (by comparison, rye
contributes spice and wheat offers
a mellow touch).
03 The whiskey used to make
bourbon has been aged in charred
new oak barrels-not uncharred

wood, not used barrels, not cedar
or walnut, not stainless steel.
The oak adds flavors, including
vanilla, butter and coconut. The
origin of the oak affects the flavor,
too. American oak highlights
the coconut, while European oak
encourages a more tannic flavor
(the dry, astringent notes in tea
and some wines).
Perhaps the most important of
the barrel's descriptors is "charred."
As flames caress the inside of the
barrels, they unlock deep, complex
flavors in the wood. Carefully
controlled toasting influences the
vanillin, further contributing to
the rich vanilla notes that grace a
fine sip of bourbon. The charring
process further breaks the wood's
components into sugars that add
even more flavor to the spirit,
while the char hints at the toasty
chemical process-like the light
brown shell of a flame-kissed
toasted marshmallow and the
black crust if the marshmallow
catches on fire. At the same time,
the wood's tannic acid and charring
promote bourbon's delightful
amber color. The charring also
helps filter the spirit and remove
undesirable flavors. The influence
of the barrels is so important that
many distillers have their own
cooperage.
04 A two-year aging minimum
applies to "straight bourbon
whiskey," which may include
a mix of two or more straight
bourbon whiskies, as long as all are
produced in the same state.
The aging time underscores why
new craft whiskey distilleries don't
typically market bourbon-sitting
on product does not result in quick
return on investment. They'll start
with unaged (or lesser-aged) spirits
first.
You'll also notice bourbons that
have been aged more than two
years, further affecting the aroma

SPIRITED VIRGINIA | JULY | AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018 13
2018Q3SpiritedVA

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