Blue Ridge Country January/February 2021 - 78

F L AV O R S

Could Peas, Pork and Peanuts
Be the Keys to a Promising 2021?
These recipes and the rituals associated with them bring hope for prosperity, good luck and longevity.
By FRED & JILL SAUCEMAN

ave you ever seen a pig back up? Apparently
going in reverse is not a part of the animal's
genetic programming. We've never raised
pigs, but we've only observed them in forward mode, rooting ahead. Because of that
behavior, pigs have become a symbol of new
beginnings and progress.

Mostly in the form of hog jowl, pig meat has
been part of New Year's Day meals in the South for generations. But on our first-day-of-the-year table, you'll more
likely find hunks of pork hock-the ankle of the pig and
the very antithesis of the oft-repeated phrase " eating high
on the hog. "
Whereas ham is high, hock is low-almost as low as
you can get on the pig. Yet as African cooks soon discovered shortly after the pig was introduced into the American South by Europeans, those lowly cuts can pack the
most flavor if you know how to prepare them.
In that same pot in our kitchen, you'll find black-eyed
peas. Our friend the late John Egerton wrote in his classic
book Southern Food that " black-eyes are often associated
with a mystical and mythical power to bring good luck. "
African in origin, they have been eaten in the South for
well over 300 years. They hold an exalted place on the
Kwanzaa table as well as in the New Year's repast.
But before we go on, here's a confession: We both
came to appreciate black-eyed peas later in life. As children, we were served black-eyed peas cooked by themselves, and our parents insisted that we choke down at
least 12-one for every month. Marrying black-eyed peas
with ham hocks changed all that. And there's an extra bit
of symbolism in the pot, if you think about it. Whereas
collard greens or turnip greens or mustard greens appear
on New Year's tables to signify the promise of wealth, we
add home-grown green bell peppers to this stew.
We have given a total of 268 public presentations on
food, and we served this dish at the very first one in 1990,
to illustrate the concept of history in a pot.

BLUERIDGECOUNTRY.COM

Black-eyed Peas and Ham Hocks
2 or 3 smoked ham hocks
Half a pound of dried black-eyed peas, soaked in water for
about 4 hours
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
1 green bell pepper, coarsely chopped
2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Place ham hocks in a large pot and barely cover with water.
Bring to a boil, covered, and simmer until the meat is done-
about 90 minutes. Add black-eyed peas, drained, and remaining ingredients. Cook for another hour or so until peas and
vegetables are tender. (Peas should not be mushy.) Remove
the ham hocks and pull the meat off the bone. Add the meat
to the pot. Remove the lid from the pot and reduce the liquid
until it is slightly thick.

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Blue Ridge Country January/February 2021

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