The Roanoker - January/February 2015 - 110

Local Roots' Leaping Waters pork tenderloin with Sea Island peas is accented with a bourbon ketchup.

The main course offers slightly more variation with a choice between a meat, fish, or
vegetarian entrée and, more often than not,
it's nearly impossible to choose among the
three. On a recent evening, a friend and I
(my version of family since mine lives dispersed across the U.S.), sampled all three
and couldn't decide on a favorite. The North
Carolina Tilefish with Carolina gold rice and
a celery and carrot puree offered a taste of an
under utilized mild fish, and with the puree

and heirloom rice, it leaned toward autumn
in flavor. For the meat, Local Roots offered
a Leaping Waters pork tenderloin with Sea
Island peas cooked baked bean style and a
bourbon ketchup.
The most traditional of the three entrees,
this one didn't lack panache with the smoky
peas and tangy-boozy ketchup and the local pork was definitely the star of the plate.
Vegetarians (or those inclined towards vegetables), however, received what I found to

be the standout dish of the night: herbed
spaetzle with a medley of foraged and farm
grown mushrooms, roasted beets, and a celery
root puree. Earthy and warm, this dish was the
coziest and the two of us fought fork vs. fork
for the last bite of spaetzle.
In addition to the entrees, there are sides to
split for the table - two included with one that
you can add a la carte. Some of the best include
honey-glazed roasted carrots, long braised
local greens, and herb roasted potatoes. The
selection rotates based on season, but I've yet
to meet a side I didn't enjoy.
While it's not a homecooked Sunday supper, Local Roots' version elevates family classics like meatloaf, baked fish and hearty pastas
to an accessible and even homey fine dining
experience. Most of us don't have time to
spend all Sunday braising greens or cooking
a roast, but Local Roots takes the effort out and
offers a family experience catered to your taste.
The "local" in the name implies more than just
locally sourced ingredients, it reminds us that
we too are a part of the restaurant's family.
Local Roots
1314 Grandin Rd, Roanoke,
540-206-2610; localrootsrestaurant.com

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Downtown Roanoke

120 Church ave sw, 540-342-7231

Grand pavilion

4237 Electric Road, 540-776-9884

Salem

211 E. Main street, 540-387-2686

www.macados.net

110 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2015

THE

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The Roanoker - January/February 2015

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