The Roanoker - July/August 2020 - 70

LAYLA KHOURY-HANOLD is a food, drink and travel writer whose
work has appeared on Saveur, Food Network and Refinery29 and in
The Chicago Tribune, among others. Follow her on Instagram
@theglassofrose.

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BY LAYLA K

Cheese Slaw is Roanoke's unsung claim to culinary fame.
" HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF CHEESE
SLAW? " has become my opening line when I meet
new people.
For the uninitiated, I explain that cheese slaw is
like pimento cheese's long-lost cousin, a mixture of
coarsely shredded Swiss cheese, chopped green onions,
banana peppers and pickled jalapeño peppers, bound
together with mayonnaise.
I first sampled cheese slaw at Fork in the Market in
downtown Roanoke, where it added a creamy, tangy
kick and cooling foil to a snappy, juicy hotdog. Cheese
slaw is a versatile condiment, but also an entertainingready dip and bona fide sandwich spread. I'm also
declaring it Roanoke's unheralded claim to culinary
fame.

70

JULY/AUGUST 2020

If you Google cheese slaw, there's a Wikipedia
entry that suggests that cheese slaw is a salad or side
dish made with cheddar, carrot, mayo and sometimes
cabbage, that originated in Broken Hill in NSW
Australia. But that's not our cheese slaw.
For cheese slaw as we know it here in Roanoke, most
hits lead back to Lib Wilhelm, a revered local caterer.
Wilhelm served cheese slaw in a hollowed-out cabbage,
fanning out the outer leaves to create a serving vessel for
the dozens of parties and events she catered throughout
her business's decades-long run. Her dipping implement
of choice were corn chip scoops.
Fork in the Market and Fork in the Alley owner
Dave Trinkle says that cheese slaw has been on his
restaurants' menus from day one, where it can be added

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