Pizza Today - February 2018 - 44

A

lthough fresh herbs can
still be purchased in the
winter months, they
are not as plentiful and
inexpensive as they are
in the summer. There is
a time and place to use
dried herbs, and this is a
good time of year to use
them. I want us to explore together how
dried herbs can be purchased, stored and
used while still bringing out their explosive flavors to create the profile you're
looking for when preparing your menu
dishes and sauces. Furthermore, there is
a conversion to consider when switching
from fresh to dried herbs that I want to
touch on as well. Since the flavor of dried
herbs is more concentrated, you need to
measure carefully when using
them in your recipes.
WHEN A RECIPE CALLS FOR A
CUP OF FRESHLY CHOPPED BASIL,

you will only need 1/3 cup of dried.
That general rule goes for most
dried herbs because of their potency.
Using dried herbs in recipes such as
a marinara will require you to simmer
the sauce for two to three hours to really
bring out the flavors of your dried herbs.
Although this is a true statement and
will yield great results, since we live in
such a hurried lifestyle today, I want to
teach you a trick when using dried herbs
to bring out the bold flavors in your
recipe a lot faster than using a three-hour
simmer.
For example, if you want to make a
marinara sauce with dried herbs, I would
have you sauté the onions, then when
adding the garlic go ahead and add a
blend of herbs. I like a mixture of basil,
oregano, thyme and rosemary. I sometimes include a touch of sage.
Simmer the herbs with the onions and
garlic on a low heat for approximately
five to eight minutes. This will allow the
flavor of the herbs to bloom in the warm,
moist heat. Add some good drinking
wine (my thought is, if it's not good
enough to drink, then don't cook with it)
4 4 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / F E B R UA R Y 2 0 1 8

and then add your tomatoes and tomato
sauce. You can certainly bring your sauce
to a simmer, but since you have already
brought your herbs' flavors back to full
life you can simply simmer your sauce for
20 to 30 minutes and you're good to go
after you add salt and pepper (to taste).
THERE ARE MANY OPERATORS WHO
LIVE BY USING FRESH HERBS, and some

even grow their own. There are also some
old-school cooks who strive for that consistency and know that if they buy and
use dried herbs, their sauces and product
should remain more consistent.
Herbs can be purchased in so many
different ways now. Of course, you can
buy fresh herbs in different pack sizes.
You can even purchase micro herbs now.
Although these are fresh, they have a
more powerful, concentrated flavor than
regular herbs. These herbs are typically
used as a garnish in some higher end
venues.
DRIED HERBS CAN CERTAINLY BE
PURCHASED IN SMALL JARS that would be

typically used in households, as well as
larger containers that usually weigh six
ounces or so. Larger jug containers that
are 20 ounces or more are also available.
One of the things that is important to
understand about dried herbs is that they
generally lose their bright, fresh visual
appearance once they are dried. But
they still pack a punch when it comes to
extracting flavor. In order to keep them
from fading even more in color and
flavor, dried herbs should be stored in a
cool, dark and dry place.
I used to make fresh rosemary
bread in my restaurant every
day. We served this to our guests
along with olive oil with roasted
garlic cloves and seasonings
for dipping. I love the flavor of
rosemary, but dried rosemary is
texturally unappealing. That's
why I always purchase and use
ground rosemary in my bread
and other recipes. Buying herbs
in bulk as long as you can use

it within a reasonable time is the most
cost-effective way. I would buy ground
rosemary in a five-pound bulk bag.
Use your own pizza dough, brush it
with olive oil and sprinkle some ground
rosemary on it. Knead the dough for
just a couple of minutes and spread the
dough over a half sheet pan and let it
rest and rise in a warm, moist environment. Bake it in your pizza oven. You
can cut the bread into rectangles or
wedges. Spread some tomato paste over
the dough before it rises, adding a drizzle
of olive oil and then bake it once it's
proofed. This makes for amazing tomatorosemary bread.
HERB-CRUSTED CHICKEN OR FISH is
always a healthy and flavor-enhanced
entrée choice. You can brine a bone-in
chicken or boneless chicken, then season
it with your favorite blend of herbs. I love
rubbed sage with poultry, and would even
use some thyme and blend a little cumin.
Sear the chicken in a hot skillet or on a
flat-top grill. Finish it in the oven until it
reaches 165 F for a flavorful, tender and
juicy meal.
The same can be done with a fresh
piece of fish. Tarragon and dill are perfect
enhancers for a variety of fish. Prepare
the fish in the same manner as the chicken. A finishing sauce of butter, white
wine and lemon juice is perfect. I like to
thicken it with a blend of cornstarch and
water, which will tighten it just enough
to coat and glaze the fish. Serve it with
whatever sides you feel your guests would
enjoy.
There are so many different herbs that
are available, and each one
brings its own unique profile.
For that reason, I encourage
you to play around and experiment. n
JEFFREY FREEHOF is a frequent
Pizza Today contributor, chef
and restaurant consultant.
http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM
Pizza Today - February 2018

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