Pizza Today - July 2018 - 28

there is no need to toss it in the
air." He cautions that the more
you touch the dough, the tougher
it gets. "That's why the dough
should always be room temperature when ready to extend. If
cold, you must work it more than
desired just to open it up."
The dough, when cooked,
should be golden brown, with
nice char on the cornicione and
on the underside of the pizza.
The char should not be excessive; balance is always the key.
There should be some puff to the
cornicione, evidence of a nice cell
structure, but not exaggerated.
Goldsmith likes there to be
some resistance to the first bite (not necessarily a crunch), with a soft chew to follow.
FLAVOR WISE, GOLDSMITH DOES NOT
SEEK THE ACIDITY OF MULTI-DAY FERMENTATION. He observes: "I just do not see
sourdough as the Neapolitan flavor profile. I
do want the aroma of bread, however, along
with a touch of salt and some of that char."
Although Goldsmith is a defender of
traditional methods, his dough has evolved
over time. He continually experiments and
has added several variations to his repertoire, with longer periods of proofing and
fermentation, greater hydration and less use
of refrigeration. Minimal use or complete
avoidance of cold fermentation is a common characteristic of Neapolitan dough.
This dough calls for a very small amount of
yeast and carefully controlled temperature
throughout the various stages.
HERE ARE THE CRUCIAL COMPONENTS,
ACCORDING TO GOLDSMITH:
* Flour, water, salt and yeast.
* Proper environment for mixing, proofing and staging dough.
* Accurate measurements of weight,
temperature and time.
* Consistency with changing conditions
- the dough has a life force and responds
accordingly.
With the spirit of an artist, Goldsmith
explains the essential equipment found in
2 8 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / J U LY 2 0 1 8

his pizzeria.
"First thought comes to mind, heart,
hands and soul. I swear by our two ovens,
built on site, and the diving arm mixer we
have in place. These items are too important to nickel and dime and were the first
choices I made for the pizzeria."
In addition, he recommends a reverse
osmosis water filtration, digital scales, thermometers, air tight dough boxes, linen, flour
containers, scoops and spatulas.
GOLDSMITH IS CONSTANTLY RESPONDING TO CHANGING CONDITIONS IN THE
ENVIRONMENT. Here is a formula adapted
from his recipe that will put you on the
path to making great authentic Neapolitan
dough. Note that if the room temperature
is 72 F, water temperature will be 60 F. We
want our dough to emerge from the mixer
at 78 F.
"00" Neapolitan Pizza Flour* 100 percent - 25 pounds
Water 62.5 percent - 15 pounds, 6
ounces
Salt 2.75 percent - 11 ounces
Fresh Yeast .1 percent - .4 grams
*Not all '00' flour is the same. Use a flour
specifically formulated for Neapolitan pizza.
GOLDSMITH USES A UNIQUE "DIVING
ARM" MIXER THAT IS GENTLE ON THE
DOUGH AND REQUIRES AN 18-MINUTE
MIX. If using a standard planetary mixer,
reduce time to 13 minutes.

After all ingredients are
weighed, combine salt and water
in the mixing bowl. Once the salt
is dissolved into the water, add all
of the flour and begin mixing on
low speed. About halfway through
the mix, when the salt is well
incorporated, add the yeast. It is
important that there is a buffer
between the salt and the yeast;
we need the yeast at its best to
kick-start the dough. After the
mixing, the dough is placed on a
table and covered with damp linen
to rest for four hours before being
cut into nine-ounce balls, placed
in trays, covered and left at room
temperature.
If room temperature is 72 F, this dough
will be ready for use in approximately
12 hours after dividing and rounding. So
the entire process will take about 16 hours.
Unused dough can be refrigerated for nextday use, but must be removed from and
brought back to room temperature before
using.
The dough has a life cycle. Never take
this for granted. Goldsmith observes: "Not
only do you have to be on top of the dough's
progression so it comes to the make-up
table in perfect condition. You have to keep
your eyes on how the dough is pulled from
the tray, how it is extended and topped, how
it is baked and if it reaches the guest in a
timely manner. There must be synchronicity
among the moving parts."
Goldsmith closes with these words of
inspiration for those who want to try a Neapolitan dough:
"Above all, never stop learning. Observe,
share, ask questions. Be open to new ideas,
figuring out what works and what does not.
Look at mistakes and failures as getting you
closer to where you want to be. Try each day
to make the pizza better than the day before.
Talk to your pizza makers - they are the
ones working with the dough. Most important, remember that we are using pizza in
the service of making a connection, forming
a bond and creating a community." n
JOHN ARENA owns

Vegas.

Metro Pizza in Las

http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Pizza Today - July 2018

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