Rural Missouri - July 2021 - 30

by Zach Smith | zsmith@ruralmissouri.coop
photos by Heather Berry and Zach Smith
hen B. Ray Franklin's hotel was built in 1932,
probably few people would have guessed that
almost a century later it would be one of the
last remnants of the Lake of the Ozarks' early
years. As time and development have changed the landscape
of this iconic vacation spot in mid-Missouri, it comes
as a surprise and comfort to know that the building is not
only still standing but also serving guests once more.
To Mark Spears, managing partner of the vacation rental
and restaurant property now known as 1932 Reserve,
taking on the project at mile marker 17.5 may only have
seemed like a matter of time.
The Kansas City native was no stranger to the lake.
From college summers as a bartender to helping lake entrepreneurs
the Barrett brothers opening up of one of their
waterfront locations, Shorty Pants Lounge, Mark became
well studied in the local dining and hospitality industry.
After returning to the lake area from an 11-year career in
the fine-dining and luxury hotel world of San Diego, he
took on the task of remodeling the property, which hadn't
seen guests since the 1960s. Soon plans for the boutique
lofts included converting the 27-foot-tall basement into a
restaurant and adding the patio and boat slips to accommodate
guests. Renovation work began in the fall of 2018
and 1932 Reserve opened the following June.
" It was run-down and the grounds weren't very kept
up, but the building is unlike any other, " Mark recalls. " It
had a lot of character to it. It looked like a really fun, cool
project to take on. "
Almost 90 years later, it's clear the building was made
to last. The concrete walls and pillars bear the unmistakable
outline of the boards used to form them, which were
then repurposed into the building's subflooring. The spirit
of reutilization was carried on by converting that wood -
some bearing the stamps of the A.M. Pope lumberyard in
Bagnell or cursive notes for the " Franklin job " - into the
restaurant's bar and entryway. Hardwood floors became
light fixtures and wall accents. The hotel's original sign
still hangs in the penthouse loft. Along the way they added
" That was the idea for the menu:
Work with talented chefs, let
them be creative and have fun,
and let them come up with food
that they are passionate about. "
- Mark Spears
W
some unique touches, not the least of which is a 20-footlong,
3-inch-thick, live edge walnut farm table. The modern
industrial style with vintage touches lends itself to an
atmosphere Mark describes as upscale casual.
" I feel like if you come here, you feel like you've been
transported, " Mark says. " You feel like you could be sitting
downtown on the corner in any big city, but you're sitting
by the lake watching the boats go by. "
That same combination of the fresh with the familiar
runs from the decor to the food. Whether you're ordering
pasta, a burger or a piece of salmon, you're in for an
exciting spin on your favorite dish. A side order of Brussels
sprouts served with guanciale - cured pork cheek - or
lardons - small strips of slab bacon drained of grease and
fat - in the Lobster Mac & Cheese side or Shrimp & Grits
entree give hungry visitors some clues as to the new style
of lake dining in store for them at 1932 Reserve.
" We wanted to do a menu that wasn't like anything else
and offer some twists on classic dishes or fun ingredients
that people maybe haven't heard of and try to introduce
them to some different fare, " Mark says. " That was the
idea for the menu: Work with talented chefs, let them be
creative and have fun, and let them come up with food that
they are passionate about. "
Executive Chef Kimberly Subject puts an emphasis on
pairing flavors and textures. She and her staff make all of
1932 Reserve's dressings, sauces, broths and purees from
scratch so that each unique flavor from the kitchen can be
replicated consistently at the end of the fork.
" We really like to push the envelope, " Kim says. " It's
helped me look at food in a different way and challenges
me to not always take the safe approach. "
A shining example of that outside-the-box method are
the Mussels & Fries. The appetizer - a variation on one
of Mark's favorite dishes from San Diego - starts with
simmering shallots, garlic and white wine, then adding
Spanish chorizo, sopressata and tomato broth. Saltwater
mussels are tossed in and absorb some of the flavorful
concoction along with fries topped with lemon aioli.
" There's a lot of flavor going on, " Mark says. " We even
have people who ask for containers to try and figure out
how to take home the broth to use for something else. "
Seafood lovers will find more than a few choices to make
on the menu, one of which is the restaurant's signature
dish: Chilean Sea Bass. The hand-cut portion is seared
and served alongside roasted fingerling potatoes, asparagus
and cauliflower. The fish is plated with a roasted poblano
pepper puree and topped with hollandaise sauce.
" It's light and buttery because that's the way the fish
eats, the poblano adds a little bit of earthiness and spice to
it, and then there's richness from the hollandaise sauce,
Mark says. " There's so much flavor to it. "
Kim's favorite - Jumbo Scallops - are served on corn
puree and topped with chorizo, roasted poblanos and corn
salsa.
Whether you're staying for a vacation, dinner or just cocktails, 1932
Reserve Managing Partner Mark Spears and his staff welcome guests
back to one of Lake of the Ozarks' iconic destinations.
30 RURAL MISSOURI | JULY 2021
Rural Missouri - July 2021

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