Wine & Spirits - December 2012 - (Page 14)

books EDITED BY TARA Q. THOMAS How to Love Wine (Writing) On the heels of The New York Times Book of Wine, which includes a collection of his writings since his appointment as chief wine critic for the celebrated newspaper in 2004, Eric Asimov brings us a more personal tale of his relationship to wine. How to Love Wine: A Memoir and Manifesto chronicles the journey of a newspaperman who once authored a beer column for his high school paper, from working a hard news beat in the smoke-filled newsrooms of the 1980s to a full-time career writing about wine. Buttressed by biographic interludes, including escapades at Austin barbecue joints and other memorable meals, the book’s central focus is his grievances regarding the contemporary American approach to wine: the critic-consumer relationship, the rating process and his proclaimed primary offender, the tasting note. Asimov believes that wine should be understood for the experience that it provides—that of pleasure and enjoyment—rather than objectified. Though the author’s day job is, in part, based in the flawed system he disparages, his utopian view of what wine culture could be is well worth a read. His regular-guy approach to wine may mollify many an anxiety about choosing the so-called right bottle, but mostly, it suggests that innate knowledge, skills or extensive coursework are not prerequisites to connoisseurship. It's simply a matter of pursuing interest through tasting, context and culture.—CARSON DEMMOND How to Love Wine: A Memoir and Manifesto by Eric Asimov (William Morrow; $25) Andalucia Fortified Combining investigative rigor and technical literacy with the unabashed zeal of two men clearly enamored of their subject, Peter Liem and Jesús Barquín have written the book Sherry lovers have been waiting for. In concise, readable language and with impeccable thematic organization, the authors guide readers along the cyclical historical fortunes and through the minutiae of soils, styles and soleras of Andalucía’s fortified wine industry (including, helpfully, a discussion of Jerez’s often-overlooked neighbor and close viticultural cousin, MontillaMoriles), before embarking on a critical assessment of its principal bodegas (the latter task from which Barquín, a producer, recuses himself). A learned foray into the host of magical conditions and maddening contradictions that define Sherry’s past and present, the book also reads as an impassioned corrective for the region as it makes its way toward an uncertain future—a spirited defense of natural yeasts, barrel fermentation and preservation of its now-endangered 19th-century bodega “terroirs” and a call for the fundamental primacy of the vineyard. A new book for a new age of Sherry appreciation, Sherry, Manzanilla & Montilla is also the finest book written on the subject to date. —ADRIAN MURCIA Sherry, Manzanilla & Montilla: A Guide to the Traditional Wines of Andalucía by Peter Liem & Jesús Barquín (Manutius Press; $29.95; sherryguide.net) The Wines that Lead to Rome San Francisco–based sommelier Shelley Lindgren has made a career of championing indigenous Italian varieties in the United States, both via her restaurants and the books that accompany them. She showcases the country’s southern wines at A16, her first restaurant as well the name of her first book; SPQR, her second restaurant and the title of her latest book, puts the spotlight on the country’s central and northern varieties. Lindgren has made the ancient roads of Rome the map for the book, and begins each chapter with a detailed account of each region’s wine styles and grape varieties, enlivened by personal anecdotes of her own extensive travels. The stories come vividly to life in the company of SPQR co-owner/chef Matthew Accarrino’s dishes, which follow Lindgren’s text. Though the home cook may find some challenging, as Accarrino employs techniques such as sous vide and stovetop smoking, his powerful flavor combinations will inspire readers to up their game. Think ramp spaghetti with crab and briny sea urchin butter followed by a piping hot fried quince pie with truffle honey and aged balsamic. SPQR is an inspired collaboration between two professionals at the top of the food and wine game, a reference for cooks and enophiles alike. —ALEXIS BROCK SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine by Shelley Lindgren and Matthew Accarrino (Ten Speed Press, 2012; $35) German Wine, Up to Date The latest in the Fine Wine series of books devoted to classic wine regions, The Finest Wines of Germany may also be the best: In just 70 profiles, author Stephen Reinhardt presents a snapshot of the modern German wine scene that reads as one of the most exciting in the world. Rather than compiling a list of the “best” estates, he’s made a tight selection of producers from 10 of the country’s 13 wine regions that embody the current ethos. Sure, there are the classics, like J.J. Prüm, Wittman and Weil, but there are also lesser-known names such as Peter Jakob Kühn, who’s shaking up the Rheingau with his biodynamically produced wines, quiet superstar Daniel Vollenweider in the Mosel and Paul Weltner, redefining silvaner in Franken. Reinhardt’s enthusiasm for the wines and the people he profiles is palpable in the text, and echoed in Jon Wyand’s photos, portraits filled with personality.—T.Q.T. The Finest Wines of Germany by Stephen Reinhardt (University of California Press; $39.95) 14 W I N E & S P I R I T S D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2 http://www.sherryguide.net

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - December 2012

Wine & Spirits - December 2012
Editor's Note
Contents
Fined & Filtered
Happenings
Books
Spirits
The Light in Douro
Sushi & German Riesling
Tokaji Myths
Napa vs Bordeaux: A Seismic Shift
A Tale of Two Vintages
Dinner with Barolo
Extreme Values
Tastings Overview
Champagne
US Cabernet Sauvignon
Barolo & Barbaresco
Rioja
German Riesling
Alsace
American New Releases
International New Releases
Faces at the W&S Top 100

Wine & Spirits - December 2012