Wine & Spirits - June 2013 - (Page 88)

by Tara Q. Thomas Battle of the Books John Kapon, CEO of the retail store and auction house Acker Merrall & Condit, has published his first book. Michael Broadbent of Christie’s is on his 18th. Background John Kapon Michael Broadbent, MW Dropped out of NYU after his first semester and worked in rap music production before landing at his family’s NYC wine store, Acker Merrall & Condit, at age 26. He launched the company’s auction business in 1999, finding particular success in the Hong Kong market. Trained as an architect; at age 25 served as “a wine trainee” in The Times in London; worked at wine retail before joining Christie’s in 1966, tasked with starting up a new wine department and relaunching the company’s wine auctions. The Compendium: Tasting the World’s Finest Wines Vintage Wine: Fifty Years of Tasting Three Centuries of Wine (Fine Wine Editions, Quarto Group, London, 2012) Size: 11x17x1in (Harcourt, NY, 2002) Size: 9x11x1.5in Stated purpose “When I looked back and realized how many great wines I had been consuming, I decided to share them with my friends and clients—in the spirit of wine itself...I am committed to sharing these experiences for the rest of my life, even though I always feel inadequate because so few of my notes actually go public.” “My aim, through the use of tasting notes, is not only to illustrate the style and quality of individual wines, but also to trace their development. And, importantly, to rate vintages and, where appropriate, to describe the weather and market conditions which make one vintage year more successful and significant than another.” Regions Covered Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Rhone, Italy (3 wineries) and Spain (2 wineries) Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhône, Loire, Alsace, Germany, Italy, Tokaji, Champagne, Vintage Port, Madeira, California, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa Scoring system “My ratings are based on the 100-point scale because I am American and that is how we are trained to think. Any wine listed as NR means Not Recommended, which indicates that the wine was below 80 points…” “I have used the “broad brush” 5-star rating system... Although I occasionally use a 20-point system at blind tastings to supplement my notes they relate only to a particular wine tasted at a particular time. In my opinion, the 100-point rating system is flawed because it is inflexible and does not allow for bottle variation and context.” Most Favored Wine Region “Without question, to make great Burgundy is the hardest winemaking job on the planet. This is why the greatest wines are so special and so cherished…a 95-point Burgundy is a little more notable than a 95-point Cabernet.” “I regard France as the cradle of fine wine, for with the honourable exceptions of Germany and its Riesling and Italy with Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, virtually every major grape variety and style of wine can be traced back to France…If Bordeaux dominates the book, it is not just because I am partial to claret…Bordeaux is unquestionably the largest and most important fine wine region in the world.” Typical Tasting Note: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 1952 Romanée-Conti “Not too many people have these bottles to even think about bringing, but Big Boy is one of them, and his generosity was on full display with this incredible bottle. ‘Wooooooooooo,’ celebrated the King of Business after one sniff. The ’52 was spot-on, exactly as I remembered it to be. Its nose was perfect, showing off the spice and spine that makes ’52 so special a vintage. Its concentration out of jeroboam was spectacular. Earthy, tangy, and gamy aromas all spanked by citrus were fresh and forward. Its divine aromatics carried over to the palate, which was thick, creamy, decadent, and again divine. It was incredibly complex, showing the A1 and the citrus flavors of great older Burgundy. (New York, 3/09: 98J)” 88 WINE & SPIRITS JUNE 2013 “Bottles not numbered. By 1945, the production from the ungrafted old vines had become uneconomical and a decision was finally made to uproot and replant with American root stock. 1952 was the first major vintage to be harvested from young vines. A medium ruddy-amber colour; spicy, slightly minty, soft, harmonious bouquet which soon developed a meaty, gravy-like smell and after an hour had become degraded. Initially, on the palate, it was very sweet, very ‘warm’, very rich yet it was showing some age and the finish was twisted and slightly sour. A less than good bottle? At Wilfred Jaeger’s unprecedented Romanée-Conti extended lunch, 3/02 HH“

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - June 2013

Wine & Spirits - June 2013
Editor’s Note
Happenings
Fined & Filtered
Letter from Bordeaux
Mezcal
Destination: Atlanta, GA
Napa Cabernet, Interrupted
Tempranillo à la Chambolle
Mezcal in Mexico City
Value Brands of the Year
Introduction
Top Values of the Year at $15 or less.
Ribera del Duero
Southern France
Southern Italy
Hungary
American New Releases
Imported New Releases
Books

Wine & Spirits - June 2013