Wine & Spirits - August 2013 - (Page 76)
US NEW RELEASES
ful renderings of Rhône varietals from Red
Mountain that I’ve tasted. Broad-shouldered
and powerful, this wine’s dark core of plum
and fig flavors are supported by ferrous tannins that gird the structure. It’s the texture
that impresses: The tannins take charge, as
they do in most Red Mountain wines, but
have the precision and energy to drive the
wine beautifully. (120 cases) § Dusted Valley,
Walla Walla, WA
422016
92 | Gorman
87 | Tamarack Cellars
$16
86 | Three Rivers
$14
2011 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red (Best
Buy) ^ A perennial favorite, this kitchen-sink
blend has more suave appeal than most at its
price, with Bourbon-barrel scents and cherry
jam flavors. A sweet red for barbecue. (1,200
cases) § Tamarack Cellars, Walla Walla, WA
421785
2011 Columbia Valley River’s Red Wine
(Best Buy) ^ This wine’s black plum flavors are
supported by tannins that are just as black.
The Bordelais coolness to the fruit makes it
a value for late summer barbecues. (2,302
cases) § Three Rivers Winery, Walla Walla, WA
Syrah
421880
$40
2011 Yakima Valley Boushey Vineyards
Syrah ^ From one of the Yakima Valley’s iconic
vineyards, this powerful wine leads with dark
chocolate scents and seems almost as rich as
cake. Its flavors are driven by plum and fig
leather, the tannins leaving a peppery savor
that suggests a long life ahead. Give it a little
cellar time, then serve with roast lamb. (362
cases) § Syncline Wine Cellars, Lyle, WA
422017
90 | Gorman
$45
2010 Red Mountain The Pixie Syrah ^ Dark
and chocolaty, as dense as fruitcake, this
wine’s brandied cherry scent and coffee notes
make this syrah seem heavy at first—and yet
its flavors are refreshing and lifted, driven by
a persistent acidity. Place it with sausage and
peppers. Simple and well made. (350 cases) §
Gorman Winery, Woodinville, WA n
76
WINE & SPIRITS
Our blind panels tasted 265 new-release imported wines for this issue. Our critics rated
27 as exceptional (90+) and 29 as Best Buys. Joshua Greene reviews Italy and Portugal;
Tara Q. Thomas reviews Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Israel, Lebanon and Turkey.
Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com.
CR OA TIA WHITE
C YPRUS RED
190384
84 | Vouni Panayia
AUGUST 2013
$10
2008 Plakota (Best Buy) ^ A traditional blend
of mavro and maratheftiko bolstered with a
little cabernet (franc and sauvignon), this is
sweetly ripe, with a bit of volatile acidity running through the figgy fruit. For barbecues
this summer. § Fantis Imports, Carlstadt, NJ
$30
2010 Columbia Valley Zachary’s Ladder ^
Chris Gorman thinks of this blend of cabernet and syrah, with a dollop of petit verdot, as a kind of introduction to his wines.
From multiple sources, this inky red leads
with cedar accents from the cabernet and a
dark cushion of black fruits from the syrah.
The flavors are just as dark, buoyed by lively
acidity and savory length. (2,465 cases) § Gorman Winery, Woodinville, WA
422119
92 | Syncline
IMPORTED NEW RELEASES
C YPRUS DESSERT
189699
92 | Bastianich
$18
2010 Istria Adriatico Malvasia Istriana ^
Joe Bastianich and his Friuli team cross the
border into Croatia for this wine, sourcing
fruit from three highly respected growers:
Moreno Degrassi, Gianfranco Koslovic and
Ivica Matosevic. It’s finely balanced, the
grape’s floral, honeyed fragrance restrained
and elegant; its texture is full and satiny yet
lifted by a steadfast acidity. It lasts long, the
flavors clean and precise, with the combination of heft and delicacy to match seafood
risotto. § Dark Star Imports, NY
90 | Loel
$12
Paphos Commandaria Alasia (Best Buy) ^
One of the best bottles of Loel in memory,
this has both lift and lusciousness, the salted
caramel and nut flavors as airy as a mousse;
the candied orange notes and cinnamon stick
spice are delicate and refined. Draw out the
smoky notes with some grilled peaches this
summer, or save a bottle for winter, to enjoy
with cheese. § Fantis Imports, Carlstadt, NJ
C ZEC H WHITE
190561
90 | Vinarstvi Galant
CYPRUS WHITE
190341
88 | Vasilikon
$11
87 | Kyperounda Winery
$13
2012 Pafos Xynisteri (Best Buy) ^ This has
the acidity Cypriot winemakers try hard to
retain in spite of the island’s warmth, alongside a sunny red-apple fruit. It’s a good alternative to a glass of unoaked chardonnay. § Fantis Imports, Carlstadt, NJ
190342
2011 Paphos Petritis Xinisteri (Best Buy) ^
Kyperounda’s vineyards are some of the highest in the world, rising up to 4,500 feet in the
Troodos Mountains. In 2011, they soaked up
the sun, producing a wine with ripe orange
tones. The acidity keeps the fruit lively,
although that briskness is countered by an
overlay of oak. Give it another six months, or
pair with something rich and slightly sweet,
like pork chops stuffed with dried fruit. § Fantis Imports, Carlstadt, NJ
190343
85 | Vouni Panayia
190383
$10
2011 Paphos Alina Xinisteri (Best Buy) ^
This is full bodied and nutty, for roast
chicken on a cool summer evening. § Fantis
Imports, Carlstadt, NJ
$25
87 | Vinselekt Michlovsky
$15
87 | Vinselekt Michlovsky
$16
2011 Moravia Vino z Czech Welschriesling ^ Mikulov, where this 68-acre estate was
established in 2004, is an hour’s drive north
of Vienna, just across the border. The rolling
hills, loamy soils and nearby lake make for
rich welchriesling; the 2011 is honeyed and
orange-toned, with apple blossom scents and
celery seed herbals that lend delicacy while
smoky earth tones add gravitas. It’s succulent
and intriguing, a wine that would be fun to
pair with intricately spiced dishes, like Persian rice with saffron and dried barberries. §
Czech Wine Imports, Colebrook, CT
190563
2011 Moravia Vino z Czech Sauvignon
Blanc (Best Buy) ^ Grown not far from the
vineyards of Vinarstvi Galant (recommended
above), in Rakvice, this sauvignon skews to
the vividly green edge of the varietal spectrum, with lime and asparagus notes balanced by a bit of sweetness. For the cocktail
hour. § Czech Wine Imports, Colebrook, CT
190562
2011 Moravia Vino z Czech Grüner Veltliner (Best Buy) ^ This is very grüner in its
http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com
http://www.bastianich.com/wines_adriatico_malvasia.cfm
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2013
Wine & Spirits - August 2013
Editor's Note
Happenings
Contents
Fined & Filtered
Spirits: Rum & Ginger Beer
Athens Wine Bars
The New Naoussa
California's Heritage Whites
Insider's Guide to Sonoma
Local Snacks, Local Bubbles
Extreme Values
Introduction
Summer Sparklers
US Pinot Gris
Alto Adige/Friuli
Vinho Verde/Albariño
US Riesling
Rosés
Greece
US New Releases
Imported New Releases
Last Sip
Wine & Spirits - August 2013
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