Wine & Spirits - October 2013 - (Page 40)
MISSION/SOMA
1601 Bar & Kitchen 1601 Howard St. (at 12th); 415-552-1601, 1601sf.com
Before opening this trim 50-seat spot in SOMA, Brian Fernando
spent a decade working at San Jose’s Le Papillon, eventually
becoming chef de cuisine at that precise, high-concept restaurant. Here, the food is much more personal: He focuses on
the Sri Lankan flavors he grew up with (on his father’s side),
filtering them through his classical training and serving them
as small plates.
The references to Sri Lankan flavors don’t always work perfectly—the turmeric gel doesn’t do much for Fernando’s housesmoked salmon—but when they do, they are delicious. Order
Trick Dog
3010 20th St. (at Florida)
415-471-2999, trickdogbar.com
40
WINE & SPIRITS
OCTOBER 2013
the hopper, a Sri Lankan bowl-shaped rice-flour crepe—it’s
filled with a soft-cooked egg and served with sambals—and
then check out the wine list. Assembled by Fernando’s former colleague Cameron Mashayekh, who directs Le Papillon’s
wine program, it’s a diverse collection, with everything from
the expected handful of rieslings to Wind Gap’s refreshing
Monterey-sourced arinto to soulful reds that would sing with
Fernando’s subtly-spiced meat dishes, like Vietti’s Tre Vigne
Barbera d’Asti and the Bandol from Domaine de Terrebrune.
—LUKE SYKORA
The real trick at Trick Dog isn’t the namesake hamburger in a hotdog bun, it’s the cocktails. The famed
bar trio known as the Bon Vivants—Josh Harris,
Scott Baird and Jason Henton—own the place, a
warehouse space brightened by colored concrete.
The inventive cocktail menu changes regularly, both
in style and substance—opening like a Pantone
swatch book to reveal drinks named after colors, or
taking the form of a vinyl 45, with each drink named
after a song (like the gin-focused Louie Louie). Bar
manager Morgan Schick presents the drinks with
admirable showmanship, putting together inventive
highballs and bottled drinks that’ll make both cocktail geek and novice happy. On the food side, chef
Chester Watson gives bar food a refined twist without sacrificing soul and purpose, offering treats like
a scotch egg that gets a boost of more eggs in the
form of shaved bottarga. —LOU BUSTAMANTE
http://www.1601sf.com
http://www.trickdogbar.com
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2013
Wine & Spirits - October 2013
Editor’s Note
Happenings
Contents
Fined & Filtered
Books
Spirits
The Heights of Terroir
Best New Sommeliers 2013
New & Noteworthy Bay Area Restaurants
Finger Lakes Road Trip
Extreme Values
Overview
US Chardonnay
Red Burgundy
Australian Shiraz
Bierzo & Galician Reds
Sherry
US New Releases
Imported New Releases
Somm Gaffs
Wine & Spirits - October 2013
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