Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 37

If/then: Sauvignon Blanc/Stony
Jean
Reverdy
2016
Sancerre
La Reine
Blanche
($22)

STON
Y

Follow the Loire river inland from the Atlantic Ocean toward the center of France, and
you'll land in the rolling hills of Sancerre. The temperature is almost more
continental than oceanic, so summers can be warm, but not too: This is not the place
to look for juicy, tropical-fruited wines. Rather, Sancerre-lovers look for wines that
reflect the soils here, a mix of chalky limestone (marl and/or caillottes, small round
calcareous stones) and flint (silex), left over from an ancient seabed that once ran
from here to Champagne and across what is now the Channel to southern England).
(You'll find the same soils, in fact, in those places-all places where "minerality" is
a common descriptor in the wines.) This wine comes from vines grown on a mix of
soils, giving a good, all-round representation of Sancerre: lemony and lean, with a
firm, stony feel. * Sancerre is a classic match for oysters on the half shell.

LE

MO

NY

Y
V
R
NE

D

While sauvignon blanc is most readily identified by its green flavors, whether fruit or
herb, the variety is also sensitive to the place it grows, and different soils produce
different results. In Sancerre, much is made of the difference of sauvignon grown
on chalk or flint. Le Grand Fricambault is grown on flint, and, true to type, feels cold
and hard; one of our tasters described it as "razor blades and oyster shells." * The
Origine, grown on the softer, warmer chalk, feels riper and fruitier, with orange and
mango notes to cushion its potent acidity. * Pour a flinty Sancerre with spring vegetable
pasta, adding cream sauce if it's a riper, softer wine from chalk.

UN

Matthias et
Emile Roblin
2015 Sancerre
Origine ($29)

NERVY OR RIPE

RIPE

RO

Domaine André
Neveu 2016
Sancerre
Le Grand
Fricambault
($21)

WINE & SPIRITS

FA L L 2 0 17

37



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 8
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Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover3
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